[scotty65]

I have some problems with my 1995 Z215 Davanti.

1. Ignitition fuse opens sporadically
That is my major problem!

Every now and then the automatic ignition (IGN) fuse opens when the ignition switch is in the ON position or the engine is running respectively. It seems that the fuse opens when the trim tabs were trimmed to their end stop positions (up/down). I assume that the tabs and their control were installed later.

The Insta-Trim boat Leveler Tabs system has the standard rocker type controls and an additional LED panel to indicate current positions. Tabs are working already with ignition OFF, LED indicators work with ignition ON.
I removed the fuse panel (with automatic circuit breakers) located at the side board, looked behind the side / front panels and followed the wires as far as possible from the fuses. Trim tabs power supply line is connected with the ACC automatic fuse. It seems also that the ignition switch is connected with the glass fuses panel under the dashboard and this panel is connected with the ACC automatic fuse too.

The IGN fuse opens also sporadically when the hatch is operated. But I think the hatch/hatch switch is connected, over the glass fuse panel, with the ACC automatic fuse too.

So none of the devices which probably cause the open IGN fuse are directly connected with it. 2 wires from the IGN automatic fuse disappear in the side board of the boat. Assumedly towards the stern. I can’t figure it out without any wiring diagrams.

Now I’m at a loss. This failure appears for the first time during my last trip in salt water. Perhaps it has something to do with it.
- Trim tabs are more tight and tab motor needs more power?
- Hatch motors need more power… anyway?
- Corrosion? Higher contact resistance in plug connections somewhere?
- Why opens the IGN fuse and not the ACC fuse?

Help! I have no idea.

2. Trip odometer is down
“The more electrical gimmicks you have the more problems you get.”
The fancy trip odometer display in the middle of the dashboard shows only weird characters. I exchanged the display once, but had no success.
So it is obviously the printed circuit board behind the dashboard that doesn’t work any longer. Perhaps it is only a defect electronic component, corrosion, high contact resistance…

Someone with expert knowledge who can help?

3. Trim gauge does not indicate right trim position
The transducer resistance shows typical values for the Volvo Penta sterndrive in several trim positions. But the gauge does not indicate the position. At first it still works fine.
I learnt that most of the trim gauge models installed in boats can’t indicate the trim position directly because of the specific resistance value of that Volvo Penta transducer. I think there is an interface installed which transforms resistance values to make it appropriate for the trim gauge.
Question is: Do I need this interface in any case (means exchange/repair) or is a gauge model available which operates with the values directly emitted by the transducer?
If so, which manufacturer, type, model? I think that is a cheaper and more simple possibility.

Am I right or are there any other possibilties?

What can I do at first to make progress? Thanks for advice.

[mikeyt]

hi Juergen

Well you certainly have a problem or two! Unfortunately i dont have a "Z" model & I'm not totally familiar with it but i may have some ideas.

As for #1, it does sound like a corrosion issue and i've seen another boat that had a similar problem with Bennett power tabs tripping it's circuit breaker because the corrosion was causing the motor to work harder & the breaker couldn't handle the load when the motor was pushed to it's limit. I'm not familiar with the 'Insta-Trim" system though. Without sitting & going thru the wiring manuals we have available, it will take some work to locate the source of the problem

#2- 'rjobe' (Randy) is our resident knowledge source ( he's an electrical engineer) on the circuit board / chips that control the LCD readouts on the dash. Apparently the memory chip on the circuit board can lose its mind and all of a sudden quit working. Randy was able to re-program the memory chip off the board for another member (Moondance) and i understand his readout is working properly now. You could send him a PM to see if this might be the answer.

#3 - I understand Volvo Penta SX and DPS outdrives were notorious for failed trim sending units (which in turn caused the gauge to ready faulty). You could try taking it apart and cleaning it as again, corrosion can be an issue. Replacing the trim sending unit is about a $300 job over here

[scotty65]

Hi Mike,

thanks for your quick reply. You gave me really good advice for issues 1, 2, 3.

First of all I became a Silver Contributor and it's totally worth it. Within the next days I will go over the wiring diagrams pictured in the Owner’s Manual(s)…
…but a few questions before.
Is there a big difference between the 1994 and 1996 Manual? I didn’t read them in detail until now.
A 1995 Mariah owner schould take a look at which one?

Well, I also have some supplements in a folder. I’ll browse it and perhaps I find something usefull not yet available in that board.
What if it is in German language? …although I don’t really believe it other than documentation of Volvo Penta I have.

[mikeyt]

Originally Posted by scotty65

Hi Mike,

thanks for your quick reply. You gave me really good advice for issues 1, 2, 3.

First of all I became a Silver Contributor and it's totally worth it. Within the next days I will go over the wiring diagrams pictured in the Owner’s Manual(s)…
…but a few questions before.
Is there a big difference between the 1994 and 1996 Manual? I didn’t read them in detail until now.
A 1995 Mariah owner schould take a look at which one?

Well, I also have some supplements in a folder. I’ll browse it and perhaps I find something usefull not yet available in that board.
What if it is in German language? …although I don’t really believe it other than documentation of Volvo Penta I have.

Hi Juergen

There will be very little difference between the '94 and '96 manuals and you should be able to use either one although i might suggest the '96 cuz if there were any changes at least that one will be up to date.

Send an email to one of our admins (shabahz250, mariahman) or to our super moderator (wetwilly) and let them know what documentation you have.

[WetWilly]

Hi Scotty,

Mikeyt's right, sounds like salt water corrosion alright. You'll probably need to go through the ritual of checking all connections, connectors and possibly the switch contacts, cleaning and tightening as you go.

As for your Trim Tabs, it sounds like whoever installed your tab wiring installed it wrong. According to Insta-Trim boat Leveler Co., your tab power wire should be connected directly to the battery or the Hot 12v lead at the starter and not through the ignition switch, or breaker or any dash fuses. I have the same tabs and that's how mine are wired up. The tab wiring it's own inline 20 amp fuse to the battery. Here is the link to their web site, read the installation instruction section labeled "Wiring": Here

It's probably safe to leave the Trim Tab Indicators wired up as they are since they do not draw that much power and you really only need them while under way.

Do you have a switch on your dash labeled just for the engine lift? Either way, you might want to consider rewiring the lift the same way as the Tabs.

As for any documentation, please refer these to ShabahZ250 as he knows what our library has and needs.

Good luck,
WetWilly

[scotty65]

So, here I am again....

Rewired some cables and cleared up the messy wiring behind console and fuse panel.
What I know now for sure is that the trim flaps are directly wired to the hot 12V lead fused with 20A, like specified in the Insta Trim documentation. Also rewired seat and hatch power although the wiring was pretty good in my opinion. Checked and cleared connections to the hatch and the flaps.

But for all that, the IGN fuse opens if hatch or flaps are operated and near the end position when load is to its maximum. But: the hatch or flaps fuse is still ok and both gears continue operating! Sure! Both are wired to hot 12V!
All I observed was a voltage drop on the gauge when the IGN fuse opened (ca. 0.5V) during operating the loads.

Why the heck opens that IGN fuse?????????? Where is the connection???

Although I downloaded the wiring diagrams I can't find out in detail how the fuse panel is wired and which load is connected. Two wires are connected to the IGN fuse. I guess a 4.0mm² (AWG 13, ignition?) and a 2.0mm² (AWG 15, ????) running over a 9-pin-connector to nowhere....
I couldn't figure it out because all wires are bundled and run into a cable protective tube.

I would be very, VERY happy if anybody can tell me in detail where these wires end, and/or what I can do to solve that annoying problem.

A pin assignment of the ignition switch itself would also be helpful.

Thanks!

scotty65

[ShabahZ280]

You might want to check out the Volvo Penta service manual to search for the ignition wiring diagram. It's in the "Service Repair & Operating Manuals" section, since you're a contributor, you have access to it. I found the Mariah wiring diagrams work great for anything Mariah put on the boats, but for standard gauges, sensors, etc, they use the engine manufacturer's wiring diagrams.

[scotty65]

Well, to be honest, it was more by accident than anything else. But good advice and manuals helped a lot.

Now I worked on no.3, trim signal (Volvo Penta DP 1995, power trim later model):
I know for sure, that the trim sender unit works. I measured according to the VP repair shop manual the signal values:
ca. 1000 ohms between black/white and red/white, not changing
ca. 650 ohms between black/white and green/white, trim UP
ca. <200 ohms between black/white and green/white; trim (almost) DOWN,
continuously changing while trimming.

Signal was measured directly before the trim/tilt limiter black box.
The wire out of that black box to the trim gauge does not change value. So I assume the black box quits working, at least this signal.

a) Is a repair of the trim/tilt limiter black box possible?
b) Is there a chance to use the trim sending unit signal directly (e.g. with series resistor, potential divider), without the black box for the trim gauge.
c) Gauge is a Faria type. Does anybody know, which range of values this gauge usually requires?

Thanks a lot.

Juergen