[mikeyt]

Originally Posted by Scleepy1

I can keep the plexiglass clean....its the regular boat glass I have a hard time with. Didn't know if hull cleaner is OK on the glass? Windex....Rainx isn't doing much.

Thanks!

My eyesight must be going... The old story i used to hear from my 'grandpappy' was to use crumpled up newspaper to clean glass. Never tried it though. Alternatively, there are some products on the market for restoring headlight glass which i believe works like a polishing compound. Might be worth looking into.

[nglauer]

Griots garage sells some great products through Advance Auto. My buddy just waxed his racecar the other day and buffed out all the glass on his truck as well. His windows catch some of the fall out from the power plant he works at.. so he has to keep the wax on his truck regularly to keep the paint from being damaged. I'm thinking about buying one of the Griots kit's that includes the buffer...

[nglauer]

Originally Posted by Andy b

some friend!

I know.. that's what I said lol.

Actually.. he convinced his fiance to let him buy this little red "project" ski boat. The seller threw in the windshield and a stainless prop to sweeten the deal. Neither fit the ski boat.. but the seller told my buddy that he could sell the prop and glass and pretty much fund the completion of project lol.

Long story short.. he gave his fiance the same sales pitch. She bought into the idea of buying the little ski boat, taking the spare glass and prop and flipping them to "pay" off the initial expense of buying and fixing up their lil red boat.

Welp.. fast forward 2 years... they still have the parts and prop lol. Eventually they'll break down and sell them to me.. or finally get brave enough to list them on ebay.

[nglauer]

Originally Posted by Scleepy1

I have a 1993 Mariah Diablo that had a broken windshield when I bought it. I could have had an original glass replacement for a mere $3885. A plastic's company could have provided one if I sent them the window frame and 8 weeks later and around $6-700.

I removed the left front window as they are the same size. I placed double sided tape on the windshield, applied construction paper and traced around the outside edge. I removed the construction paper and cut around the edges including the pencil line. I now had a template for my new window....figure 1.

Next I took small pieces of duct tape and placed them on the inside/outside edge of the left front window. I then took 1x8 boards and cut them to align with the curvature of the window. I numbered these 1, 2, 3, & 4. You also have to measure how far apart each board is from the one next to it. Beings you are constructing the opposite sided window...when you go to construct this form, the one on the top is now the one on the bottom as you will be flipping this form over. This took me about 3 hours to measure.....trim...and construct. It helps to have spare pices of lumber and an air nailer. Figure 2.

I then placed my paper template on the form and traced around the outside edge, so I'd know where the edges should line up when they are heated. Figure 3.

I contacted a glass company and they cut out my template using marine grade plexiglas (1/4 inch thick) for $60. I then used spring clamps and attached the glass to the flat edge of the form. I'd bought a heat gun and started heating away. Do NOT buy the cheapest Heat Gun. After 2-3 hours, I'd returned mine and bought a better gun (Wagner) for $40 dollars. This time I placed the glass in my mold at the curved edge. I'd clamped it with a 1x2 and started to heat away. You have to heat with the curve, going top to bottom.
Plexiglas melts at 250 degrees. My heat gun has a digital readout and I had it way above that. Go back and forth about an inch from the glass. If you nick the glass with the gun it will leave a scar, it will buff out later. The weight of the other end is all it takes for the glass to lay down as it heats up. Don't bother trying to clamp it, if it is not bent all the way..clamping will not bend it further. You may want to clamp it when you are done so it keeps its shape as it cools. You may hear a slight cracking sound as it heats and that is normal. It takes patience and 3 hours to complete this step.
If I had to do it again....I would have gotten some aluminum sheeting used for ductwork and made a mold using that. Put it in the frame and solder the mold in place. The window did need a minor adjustment with the very back upward corner. It is in the boat. Last figure.

The glass was $60, heatgun $40, 1 x 8 lumber $10. Probably 12 hours labor. Saving thousands or hundreds of dollars.....worth it. If you have questions, hit me up.

Greg

Greg,

Do you have any pictures of your windshield now? Has is started to show any stress marks in the bend? The lexan sheet in my boat was cut and forced into place. It looked great when I first purchased the boat, but last summer we noticed it had some stress marks in the bend. I'm just curious if heating and bending like you did would cure this issue. I just need to find a place that sells Marine grade plexi or acrylic and try to build my own mold. I have sooo many projects... wish I just had more time and money lol. Although.. if I had the money i could just pay someone else to do it lol.. or atleast buy that windshield set off my buddy