[Firestone]

Originally Posted by baholtz

MTH,

Take some pictures, I've been wanting to go dual battery for awhile now...but haven't quite come up with a layout/wiring diagram.

Same here

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[MTH]

Another update, got a new switch on and found out a couple things. First of all, don't go cheapo on boat parts lol. All I had available at the time was an off-brand switch and it burned up trying to get power to turn this 5.7 after a couple tries. Literally a small puff of smoke came out of it haha.

Second thing is that it burned up my starter too. We bypassed the switch and boat still won't start. SO I have a Perko switch on order and a new starter, and then this thing should be starting normally once again.

I'm so ready to just enjoy the boat for once...

[pllevine]

Originally Posted by baholtz

MTH,



Take some pictures, I've been wanting to go dual battery for awhile now...but haven't quite come up with a layout/wiring diagram.

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[Mick43]

Good morning everyone, I have a 2000 shabah 182 I believe. Having some issues starting. I replaced the starter and still having issues. I turn the key and get a single click and nothing else. Every 10 or so attempts the engine will kick over. Any ideas?

[GaryDoug]

It would be best to start a new topic since this one has morphed into a battery wiring upgrade thing.

Your issue sounds exactly like the OP's initial problem which was apparently a defective battery switch.

[TN_Diablo]

Originally Posted by Mick43

Good morning everyone, I have a 2000 shabah 182 I believe. Having some issues starting. I replaced the starter and still having issues. I turn the key and get a single click and nothing else. Every 10 or so attempts the engine will kick over. Any ideas?

That sounds like the slave solenoid rather than the starter. It's a $20 part and I was asking if there was an alternative to the OE that worked better. I think the same thing is used on 4 and 6 cylinder engines. You r boat is probably very close to mine with one of those two engines.

Probably Part #96158T I described my trouble with up above.

[MTH]

She's back in business. I meant to take some pictures but there's not much to see to be honest, just a couple batteries next to each other and some wiring to a new Perko switch.

I broke the old switch apart to see inside and didn't see much going on. No real noticeable corrosion. It did feel a little loose, maybe it was worn out and not always making good connection? Hard to say. I have the batteries on charge now and am looking forward to the weekend!

Thanks again everyone for the help.

[MTH]

Well the saga continues. Took the boat out yesterday, started perfect at the dock, even rode around a while and beached for about an hour, then started fine after. Rode around more and beached for about an hour and a half, sure enough went to leave and got the rapid clicking noise and no start.

I tried everything I could think from switching batteries, hooking up a jump box, etc etc... only one thing I did finally got it to start. I got the crank to turn by hand, not much, I moved it maybe an inch in rotation. Then the next try the boat fired right up.

Someone throw some ideas at me about what could be going on. I'm thinking this issue is unrelated to the low voltage/high resistance issue I was having before.

Is vapor lock a possibility? After doing more reading I'm leaning towards that... Turning the crank by hand just a little got it to fire finally. I don't know why. I'm on the edge of selling the thing and letting someone else sort it out lol! It's a shame cause it's a beautiful boat and in great shape.

[Hudson River Steve]

Turning the crank slightly by hand was most likely just a coincidence. If the motor will not crank over with the starter than you are still having an electrical problem. You really need to use a voltmeter to isolate the intermittent no crank issue. Intermittent electrical issues are the most maddening and difficult to properly diagnose. See my earlier post for a step by step diagnosis guide. If you do not feel comfortable with using a voltmeter then maybe you could pay a pro to ride around with you for an hour or two until you can reproduce the issue.

[TN_Diablo]

Agree turning the crank was just coincidence.

My money is on the slave solenoid I mentioned above and may be the same part #. I bet you have the same set-up as Mercury used this on most engines back then. You can carefully jump the two main (bigger wires under plastic protector) terminals for power on the slave with the ignition on or you can jump power from the battery to the solenoid on the starter, whichever is easier to reach and see if it turns over fine. I bet it will and that is what I've done a couple times when it was acting up and would just click. What I did not try was just giving the start wire (red/white I think from the ignition) and also the ground wire (these are the two smaller wires that push on) a wiggle to see if it is no more than a bad connection.

My last trip out mine did not give me a hint of trouble. It may have just been the terminals which I did 'exercise' the connections after coming home and looking for problems again. Of course I did NOT find any but I think I will just get a replacement for $20 for the next time it does act up. Easily changed with a couple basic tools.