Okay, This isn't going to be to in depth but I have some before and after pics along with a list of parts that came with the kit so here we go.
This is the engine before the conversions:
This is a list of all parts in the kit, parts you will have to re-use, parts you'll have to change, and I'll describe the special plug wrench you might have to make:
Parts in kit:
2 exhaust manifolds
2 exhaust risers +2 hoses
2 elbows w/rubber boot (round to oval)
2 exhaust gaskets
2 riser gaskets
12 Manifold bolts
8 riser bolts w/ lock washers
8 4" hose clamps
2 water hose fittings w/drain cock
2 1" teflon coated plugs
2 1/4" teflon coated plugs
8 threaded studs
Parts to re-use:
All 8 of the old hose clamps
2 studs for shift linkage
1 bolt for shift linkage/gear oil reservior
Parts to modify:
Depending on the amount of room the shift linkage return shock
starboard side coolant hose needs to be shortened
Tools to make:
Cut heads off of two older manifold bolts to assist in positioning Manifold and gasket
Special spark-plug wrench
Okay, so removal of the old manifolds is straight forward. Simply remove the gear oil reservior, shift linkage (make sure to unplug the shift interupt switch), spark-plugs, and loosen the all the hose clamps on the manifold to y-pipe bellow. After that loosen the 6 manifold bolts and pull the out then wiggle them while pulling up and out to get the bellow to let go. After getting the manifolds out of the way go ahead and pull the bellow off of the y-pipe and collect all the hose clamps and save them for later. Scrap all gasket material off the exhaust ports.
The GLM Conversion kit I got had a few chips on the mating surfaces but otherwise the kit is of decent quality. I would also suggest that a person get some Quick Silver Perfect Seal to use on all gasket surfaces and the threads of all bolts.
Installation is going to be pretty much the reverse of taking them off only with a few steps added. First thing you will want to do is cut the heads off of two old manifold bolts. After that thread them in the hole about 1 1/2 turns. Make sure that there is enough bolt left to get some pliers around. place your manifold gasket over the bolts then lift the manifold onto the bolts. Once you get a few of the new bolts started you can remove the ones that were used for dowels. Go ahead and tighten the bolts to spec.
Now is a good time to put the oval boots on the y-pipe along with the clamps. It helps to have a little soapy water on the boot to help it get started. Now, place the elbow into the boot and lightly tighten the hose clamps. After you get things snug place the round hoses over the round end of the elbow along with the hose clamps. Go ahead and place the riser gasket on the manifold and start place the end into the hose then lay the riser onto the gasket. Tighten all the bolts (don't forget the lock washers) to spec. and finish tightening all the hose claps. Go ahead and put the coolant elbows/cocks in along with the 1" and 1/4" plugs.
Take the studs off of the old manifolds or use new ones. You will have to play with the configuration for your shifter and gear lube reservior. Hook up your coolant lines and tighten all clamps. Plug your shift interupter back in. You should be ready to go. Test your shifter to make sure there isn't any binding.
Start to finish for me was approximately 3hrs. I say approximately because I had to remove the heads and intake manifold for head gasket replacement. All told my complete project was probably about 10 hours.
This is what your finished product should look like:
4.3LX Owners, Listen Up
