4.3LX Owners, Listen Up
 

I just wanted to pass this on to some folks on the board. I spent the last week replacing manifolds and head gaskets on my 4.3LX Gen+. They were 10yrs old and they were the single piece (batwing) manifolds. I'll be posting a write up about the GLM conversion when I get the time.

I was hoping to get one more season and replace them this winter. It turns out while I was prepping the boat for our first outting last Sunday, I had milk-shake when I pulled my oil pan drain plug. The exhaust manifolds had let go and I had water in my oil and in cylinders 1, 3, and 5. I lucked out and didn't hydro-lock my motor to the point I bent connecting rods. All I got was a blown head gasket out of the deal.

If any of you guys got the single piece manifolds and have been trying to get another year out of them.....don't do it. Get them replaced now.

Another FYI is that the dip stick doesn't go into the oil pan. It sits up in the stick so checking the oil won't show it. About the only way to tell is if your oil level rises(making oil.)

Thanks,

~J

I'd be interested in reading your write up & seeing a couple of pics on this ....

Same here. Even though I don't have a 4.3.

I'll get around to it in few days. I've been busy with work and home repairs in preparations for my son thats due in August. Unfortunately, I didn't take any pictures so it will be text only. I will get some after pictures and I may have a before pic. I will also include a couple special tools I had to make.

I was going to take pictures along the way and even took the camera to my shop. I'm one of those people that once I get started I tend to work until I'm out of parts or exhausted.

Just bear with me and I'll get it posted.

Thanks

~J

Same as me and im sure a bunch of other members are the same way. Once you get moving on something, you get into a groove and you know if you stop for a few minutes you loose your groove. I know when cleaning the boat last spring before it saw water, I didn't want to stop for lunch to eat something. My girlfriend had to force me to stop moving.

Maybe include a listing of parts that you used as replacements?

Take your time with it, we aren't in a rush. :)

OH btw .. congrats on the new one! :D

4.3lx
 

Thanks for sharing. I'm not sure what the "bat wing" manifolds look like (other than a bat wing). I have '95 Barchetta with a 4.3, 4bbl. It ran great last year, but it concerns me a bit with all the "things" that could go wrong. Paul

Okay, This isn't going to be to in depth but I have some before and after pics along with a list of parts that came with the kit so here we go.

This is the engine before the conversions:

http://i181.photobucket.com/albums/x...4/DSC04409.jpg

This is a list of all parts in the kit, parts you will have to re-use, parts you'll have to change, and I'll describe the special plug wrench you might have to make:

Parts in kit:

2 exhaust manifolds
2 exhaust risers +2 hoses
2 elbows w/rubber boot (round to oval)
2 exhaust gaskets
2 riser gaskets
12 Manifold bolts
8 riser bolts w/ lock washers
8 4" hose clamps
2 water hose fittings w/drain cock
2 1" teflon coated plugs
2 1/4" teflon coated plugs
8 threaded studs

Parts to re-use:

All 8 of the old hose clamps
2 studs for shift linkage
1 bolt for shift linkage/gear oil reservior

Parts to modify:

Depending on the amount of room the shift linkage return shock

starboard side coolant hose needs to be shortened


Tools to make:

Cut heads off of two older manifold bolts to assist in positioning Manifold and gasket

Special spark-plug wrench

Okay, so removal of the old manifolds is straight forward. Simply remove the gear oil reservior, shift linkage (make sure to unplug the shift interupt switch), spark-plugs, and loosen the all the hose clamps on the manifold to y-pipe bellow. After that loosen the 6 manifold bolts and pull the out then wiggle them while pulling up and out to get the bellow to let go. After getting the manifolds out of the way go ahead and pull the bellow off of the y-pipe and collect all the hose clamps and save them for later. Scrap all gasket material off the exhaust ports.

The GLM Conversion kit I got had a few chips on the mating surfaces but otherwise the kit is of decent quality. I would also suggest that a person get some Quick Silver Perfect Seal to use on all gasket surfaces and the threads of all bolts.

Installation is going to be pretty much the reverse of taking them off only with a few steps added. First thing you will want to do is cut the heads off of two old manifold bolts. After that thread them in the hole about 1 1/2 turns. Make sure that there is enough bolt left to get some pliers around. place your manifold gasket over the bolts then lift the manifold onto the bolts. Once you get a few of the new bolts started you can remove the ones that were used for dowels. Go ahead and tighten the bolts to spec.

Now is a good time to put the oval boots on the y-pipe along with the clamps. It helps to have a little soapy water on the boot to help it get started. Now, place the elbow into the boot and lightly tighten the hose clamps. After you get things snug place the round hoses over the round end of the elbow along with the hose clamps. Go ahead and place the riser gasket on the manifold and start place the end into the hose then lay the riser onto the gasket. Tighten all the bolts (don't forget the lock washers) to spec. and finish tightening all the hose claps. Go ahead and put the coolant elbows/cocks in along with the 1" and 1/4" plugs.

Take the studs off of the old manifolds or use new ones. You will have to play with the configuration for your shifter and gear lube reservior. Hook up your coolant lines and tighten all clamps. Plug your shift interupter back in. You should be ready to go. Test your shifter to make sure there isn't any binding.

Start to finish for me was approximately 3hrs. I say approximately because I had to remove the heads and intake manifold for head gasket replacement. All told my complete project was probably about 10 hours.

This is what your finished product should look like:

http://i181.photobucket.com/albums/x...anifolds_1.jpg

http://i181.photobucket.com/albums/x...anifolds_2.jpg

http://i181.photobucket.com/albums/x...anifolds_3.jpg

http://i181.photobucket.com/albums/x...anifolds_4.jpg

Thanks for posting the write up and posting some photos as well! :wink_thumbup:

So what did it end up costing just in parts pricing?

180diablo,

The manifold kit was $850 US from e-basicpower.com. Shipping was free to the east side of the Rocky Mountains. About the only additional cost would be the Perfect Seal which is high but I knew someone that had some. Also, you can't forget to budget for some beer. This entire project probably cost around $50 in beer. Keep in mind thats enough beer for removal of manifolds and heads, cleanup of heads, replacement of heads and manifolds. Plus the check ride that must be done ;)

I will try to get a picture of the wrench I had to make for the spark plugs. There isn't enough room between the manifolds and the heads to get a standard spark plug wrench on. I used a 12" piece of 1/4" fuel line to start the spark plug and snug it up. Then, the wrench to torque it down.

~J

Just cuious.
 

As I read the entire post from start to finish I was glad i joined this forum. I am guessing that your manifolds either cracked or wore though to allow water to enter the engine though open valves and then run down past rings to collect in the oil pan. I just purchased a Z201 with water in the oil. It had been winterized by the previous owner and when he started using it this season he got water in bilge and he had the freeze plugs replaced but still had water in oil. The Marina told him his block must be crack and gave him a figure to replace the motor. He opted to sell as is and buy a smaller boat for use. I pick it up tomorrow and am wondering if maybe the manifolds cracked and let the water in though the open valves. Will try to check it out Sunday and -post later my results.
Wonsnam Z201 Tali.