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Z275....was it worth the trip?

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Old 05-15-2008, 06:10 PM   #11
 
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My fridge is also only 12VDC but is not connected to the battery switch under the right rear seat. It gets power from the two starting batteries (I nee to switch mine like Z275’s). It has BLK and RED wires in back with spade connectors I unhooked. As for the switch under the seat, the only thing it powers, I can find, is a RED wire with a spade on the end found hanging up behind the storage door, near the back of the radio in the cabin. I assume this is to power items in the cabin off the deep cell.
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  • Old 05-15-2008, 06:30 PM   #12
     
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    I have and use the original bow cover. My cockpit cover is canvas (I wish it was the original vinyl as it is stronger and more water proof than the canvas). My double bimini is just the bimini with the back part of the camper canvas attached so you should have this. I am going to stop using the bow cover while tailoring because it vibrates and is chafing the area behind the anchor door. I would like to have a full boat cover to trailer with but at $1400 to have one made I think I will pass for now.
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    Old 05-15-2008, 06:31 PM   #13
     
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    Interesting, I made up a wiring diagram of how mine was when I got it. I'll attach it in PDF format. My 3rd battery was connected to the single switch under the seat and powered the GPS, fridge, cabin lighting, power hatch, and seats.
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    File Type: pdf Boat_Batts.pdf (4.0 KB, 15 views)
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    Old 05-15-2008, 06:48 PM   #14
     
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    Z275,
    Thanks for the info.
    That is the ideal setup. Mine is not like that. I have felt the deep cell was under used. Only transom shower, anchor lights, radio ant., and bilge pump connect straight to my deep cell. Looks like I need to do some rewiring!
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    Old 05-15-2008, 07:09 PM   #15

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    I guess everything was custom in 2001,

    I would think ideally you would want the deep cycle battery to power everything you need when you are anchored and hanging out. Bilge, Cabin, radios, Anchor light, fridge.

    My 3rd battery powers- Radio's (and antenna) Cabin lights, and GPS. (maybe the fridge) but not the anchor light.

    Looks like I have some rewiring to do too.

    another thing I found that bothered me with the wiring, was the battery negative from the charger was never connected to anything.

    The plastic knockout on the charger over the Negative terminal was never removed, making me think it was never connected since new.
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    Old 05-15-2008, 07:30 PM   #16

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    Quote:
    Originally Posted by z275st View Post
    I have and use the original bow cover. My cockpit cover is canvas (I wish it was the original vinyl as it is stronger and more water proof than the canvas). My double bimini is just the bimini with the back part of the camper canvas attached so you should have this. I am going to stop using the bow cover while tailoring because it vibrates and is chafing the area behind the anchor door. I would like to have a full boat cover to trailer with but at $1400 to have one made I think I will pass for now.

    I agree the vinyl is stronger and more waterproof, but on a chilly evening the vinyl cover is easily 1" to 1.5" short in length, and .5" short in width. Maybe it won't be so annoying once the evenings warm up.

    I'm sure I will get use out of the vinyl when I store the boat. But for regular use I think I will like the ease of canvas. Good to hear the double is the bimini plus camper. That makes tons of sense.
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    Old 05-16-2008, 01:00 AM   #17
     
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    Jason,
    I have one large gauge black wire (about a #4) from the + side deep cell going into the rotary switch under the seat, and one red (about a #10) coming out. It goes through the wall and joins other wires near back of red starter battery switch and disappears in a conduit at the transom. Do you have more than one wire coming out of the deep cell switch? I am hoping that maybe the red wire with a spade on the end near the cabin radio is a alternate power to cabin like you have. And that I may be able to unplug a common feed to the cabin from the starter batteries and replace with deep cell feed. I know it may be wishful thinking but Mariah did over wire their boats for future changes/additions.
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    Old 05-16-2008, 01:31 AM   #18
     
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    John,
    My switch under the seat *was* the same way. A 4ga going to the battery and a 10ga going up to the helm area. I though this fed the fuse box behind the snap up mirror in mine. Someone may have changed that since the boat was new though. I've since run a 4ga wire from behind the radio console in the cabin to the aux switch under the rear seat. I put a distribution block in that powers my amps, radio, and TV invertor. I also moved the deep cycle up to a 27 group size and put a matching battery mount bracket in for it. For some reason they had the nice brackets on the other 2 batteries and a cheapo battery box for the 3rd one. I would of liked to upgrad all the batteries to AGM's but the Guest charger I have is not compatible with AGM's or gel cells. Guest said any Ferro type charger will destroy these types of batteries.
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    Old 05-16-2008, 09:37 PM   #19
     
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    I’m glad to see our wiring started the same. You’ve made a good balance in your electrical system. I really need to start doing more work to my boat in that area.
    Thanks for the tips!
    John W.
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