[csterner]

Has anyone used this product before? As some of you know, my boat was born and raised in saltwater until I bought it. The prior owners weren't the most religious at flushing after each use(and yes, I knew this going in...but I got a great deal on it because of that). Anyways, I took off my thermostat housing yesterday and noticed alot of rust and was going to chunk down the $300 for a new one when I found out about soaking it in Metal Rescue and removing all the rust. I then thought..."why can't I run this thru my whole cooling system and clean everything?" It will not damage the seals, gaskets, or rubber, and it is not an acid system. It is water based and I believe has active particles that attack and eat the rust.

So what are your thoughts? I have talked to the manufacturer and they said it would be fine. I would need to rig up some device to capture the liquid coming out of the outdrive to recycle it back thru the cooling system again.

[Oregondunes]

what if you did like I do for winterization ?

I bought a cheap 5 gal fuel jug at Home Depot. Clamped on a piece of 8' clear hose from Home Depot with a hose end on the other end that I attach to my ear muffs.

I set the fuel jug up on the swim step

I run the motor on the hose til the thermostat opens, then quickly change over to the anitfreeze til it all drains from the fuel jug but I can still see it in the hose.

Then youd let the solution sit for say (24-48 hours....or longer) then hook up the hose again and flush it out.

[csterner]

Hey Oregon!

That is a good idea. But when you turn the engine off, does the cooling system stay pretty full or does most drain out after you shut it off? I would want the system to stay full to stay in contact with the solution. That is why I was thinking to just let it run continuously. But I think I like your idea better!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

[Oregondunes]

the other option would be the trash can method. fill it with you solution, drop your outdrive into it and just let er run. tho eventually it's gonna get warm.

tho you could shut it down, let it cool down say over night, then fire it back up tomorrow.

[csterner]

That would be a good idea except that my water intake is not thru my outdrive. I have a pick up under the engine. Also I can't lower my outdrive into a trash can cause it sits too low in my trailer and I can't ever completly lower my outdrive on the trailer. So I think I might try your original idea and see what happens.

[Oregondunes]

without a lower water pick up in the outdrive, how do you flush your cooling system ?

[Dredd]

Originally Posted by Oregondunes

without a lower water pick up in the outdrive, how do you flush your cooling system ?

Fake-a-lake instead of muffs.



That's how the wakeboard guys do it anyway.

[csterner]

I have a raw water pickup on the bottom of my hull that feeds the water pump. I installed a "T" valve right next to my raw water pickup valve in the engine room. I have a quick release fitting and just snap my garden hose on and close the pickup valve and turn the water on.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

[csterner]

With the Bravo III, the factory had 2 options for raw water cooling; you can either bring raw cooling water thru the outdrive intakes and into the water pump, or thru a seawater pickup located on the bottom of the hull right under the engine.
I personally like the pickup because it is much higher in the water than the outdrive ports, and where I boat there is a lot of sand and shallow water and just less chance of clogging up those ports.
I cannot use the under hull "fake a lake." Boat sits too low on the trailer. So I just installed the T and it works great.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

[Oregondunes]

love the fake a lake idea tho