[180diablo]

Originally Posted by WetWilly

[SIZE="2"
As for your "burp", it sounds like the cold start circuit or choke assembly may need adjusting depending on whether you have a carb or injection since it clears up after the engine is up to temperature.
[/SIZE]

Hmm, well getting the boat started from sitting for a week or overnight isnt my issue. After a few pumps of the thottle first, it will turn over either the first or second time.

But what I basically meant was, boat is idling @ the dock, give or take about 5minutes or whatever. We back out of the dock and proceed slowly out of the river. When we get to the end of the river and we can open it up onto the lake... that is when it sputters for a second and it almost dies... but doesnt. Then it roars back to life and goes again and up to plane.

Normally I never "hammer" the throttle on my boat. It is a 3.0L afterall. But a steady, smooth drop of the throttle is what I normally do.

As for Mikey knowing about Beano ... I guess im not in that age bracket ... yet.

[WetWilly]

Thanks guys for the compliments on our skeg! Isn’t it amazing what you can do with Photoshop nowadays… I’m just kidding!

Looking back, it wasn’t too bad of a project. I mean the hardest part for me was working on my back and sides while trying to sand the aluminum part of the ourdrive, had to use files and a small grinder (goggles and mask are mandatory here) and man, did my arms get really tired fast!

At least the Bondo part went a lot easier but it's been a long, long time since I worked with the stuff, took me a couple of tries until I reached a point where I was satisfied with the results.

The most important advise I can give is make sure the area your working on is totally clean, I mean completely free of oil, grease or any other contaminates. If you don't, the Bondo and paint won't adhere properly. I used good old dish soap and a brush for the first cleaning (washed twice) then lacquer thinner. I used a tack cloth between sandings and a last wipe with the thinner before spraying on the primer

Another thing, don’t use steel wool on the outdrive, steel and aluminum, not a good mix… use fine grade sandpaper instead.

Lastly, make sure to use a Zinc Chromate Primer over the aluminum to protect the metal and to give the outer paint something to “grab” onto.

Well, now it your turn to fix up your skegs,
WetWilly

[180diablo]

Here is mine: (photo taken in 06)



Just wondering what it cost you to repair it and the approx # of hours working on it to complete? or was it mentioned and I just missed it.

[WetWilly]

Originally Posted by 180diablo

But what I basically meant was, boat is idling @ the dock, give or take about 5minutes or whatever. We back out of the dock and proceed slowly out of the river. When we get to the end of the river and we can open it up onto the lake... that is when it sputters for a second and it almost dies... but doesnt. Then it roars back to life and goes again and up to plane.

Hi 180diablo,

Aw, the 3.0... Great engine! Had one in my old Sea Ray!

Do you know how long it takes you to reach the end of the river from your dock and what rpm are you traveling at while on the river? Lastly, does your temp gauge indicate that the motor is fully warmed up by the time you exit the river?

As for the skeg, the total for everything was about $220 and change. The cost to have skeg restored to it's former size was $150 (metal and welding) and the rest was for the primer, Outdrive paint, hand full of 3M sanding blocks (these worked the best on the Bondo), tack rag, dust masks, etc... I had the metal grinding tools already.

The actual time was 1 day for the welding and 4 days to finish the rest because I applied several coats of Bondo, primer and paint; I had to wait awhile between coats. Your time will vary depending on how "perfect" you want it to look.

Your skeg is in pretty good shape considering, you can just clean it up and repaint it and it'll be fine! I really don't think you need to see a wielder; you could probably get away with using "JB Wield" to fill in the nicks on the front edge and the chunk out back. If you've never used JB Wield, it is amazing stuff! It's an epoxy and it's tough as metal when dry but you can still sand it, drill it, tap it.

WetWilly

[180diablo]

Originally Posted by WetWilly

[FONT="Comic Sans MS"][SIZE="2"]
Hi 180diablo,

Aw, the 3.0... Great engine! Had one in my old Sea Ray!

Do you know how long it takes you to reach the end of the river from your dock and what rpm are you traveling at while on the river? Lastly, does your temp gauge indicate that the motor is fully warmed up by the time you exit the river?

About ...this far...



This photo was from 2003 and I'am standing on top of my uncles dock. The boat that is just heading out, once it makes it around the bend to the right, there are 2 markers there. From there it is all lake. Rpm,.. ummm 1500? 10km/hr is max speed in the river. Temp gauge from what I remember was warmed up. It was definately higher then first started.

Originally Posted by WetWilly

Your skeg is in pretty good shape considering, you can just clean it up and repaint it and it'll be fine! I really don't think you need to see a wielder; you could probably get away with using "JB Wield" to fill in the nicks on the front edge and the chunk out back. If you've never used JB Wield, it is amazing stuff! It's an epoxy and it's tough as metal when dry but you can still sand it, drill it, tap it.

WetWilly

Yeah the mechanics @ work use JB weld for a bunch of different uses. I have never touched it. But maybe I might consider it before it sees some water. The only time I really "have" to work on it is mid-april till about the end of may. Once its in the water, its in there till the end of september. I may consider a trailer purchase this year... dunno.

[Z 202]

I'll have to try that. I used a ton of that stuff keeping my Turbo-Minivan together. Cheap Chrysler plastic...


I have a chip on the leading edge but it's not much bigger than 180diablo's

[WetWilly]

What can I say... JB wield is to me what duck tape is to a redneck!

Not to deviate to far from this thread, but I really believe 180diablo, it's got something to do with the manifold/carb temperature or your cold circuit, because it doesn't happen after you get going and that’s when everything gets up to proper operating temp. Anyway, let me know what your mechanic says was the problem...

WetWilly

[180diablo]

Originally Posted by WetWilly

What can I say... JB wield is to me what duck tape is to a redneck!

Not to deviate to far from this thread, but I really believe 180diablo, it's got something to do with the manifold/carb temperature or your cold circuit, because it doesn't happen after you get going and that’s when everything gets up to proper operating temp. Anyway, let me know what your mechanic says was the problem...

WetWilly

Yeah I will have to try and remember that in about 2months ...
Cold beer ... err i mean cold circuit.. got it

I will try and report back tho

[z275st]

Look great! I jealous of anyone who has been on the water already!

[WetWilly]

Thanks for the compliment z275st,

As for being jealous, don't be! I believe it doesn't matter when or how many times your on the water, it's really about how you spend the time when your there!

Quality over quantity... good friends, good weather, good food and drink, that's what I'm talking about...

WetWilly

oops, I forgot to add "and a Mariah"