[bblauvelt]

I'm now glad I've opted to winterize myself as I've found a world of sins. Worst of which is my stern drive took a heck of beating this season. I suspect the primary cause was the Mercathodes were painted over. I sort wish I knew enough to check rather than rely on the marin.

Any ideas on ideas on stern drive refinish? Thus far I know I should first use Alumiprep #33 followed by Alodine #1201, but I'm not sure on the best top coat. My primary concern is protection rather the looks.

[mikeyt]

WetWilly is the man when it comes to outdrive refinishing. He did a Bravo 3 repair & refinish last winter that looked excellent. Now that the seasons end is approaching he can tell us how it stood up to use.

Bravo III skeg repair finally finished

[Z 202]

I just did as WetWilly suggested. In my case it was a light sanding, a good cleaning, some zinc based primer and a couple of coats of Phantom Black.

Looked great when I was done.

[WetWilly]

Hi bblauvelt,

Mikey's right, I had to repair our lower leg last year and so far it's holding up really really well except for some new scratches for going too close to a island in the lake for some wildlife exploration, caught some rocks in the shallows so it another prop refinish and lower skeg repaint...

Now I assume your problem is with corrosion from sitting in the water all the time versus damage from physical contact, is that correct? Anyway, the Alumiprep #33 followed by Alodine #1201 should be safe for the Mercruiser outdrive so that would be a great starting point. I would follow up with a quality Zinc Chromate priner because Alodine #120 does not alter the electrical conductivity of the aluminum and you want to make it as difficult as possible for any electrosis of the outdrive. Another thing to be aware of, Alodine #120's chemical film is fragile immediately after applying and drying so give it at least 24 hours before handling or painting over it. Follow up with a good quality paint like Z202 did, I used the Mercury Phantom Black paint as well. You could also follow up with a epoxy clear coat, just give the Phantom Black a week to cure fully before adding the clear coat. What ever route you take, just remember to use a proper paint respirator and not a dust mask, these chemicals are nasty and once in the lungs, some of them don't come out!

As for your Mercathodes, definitely clean the paint off of them and have a Mercruiser service center check to make sure your Mercathode system is working properly, Ours Mercathode controller was bad so it was replaced.

Now for the sacrificial anodes (zincs), there has been a change in the metal used in what we call zincs... many are no longer made from "Zinc" like in the old days. Most are now made from soft alloy aluminum or magnesium and the difference is important depending on the whether you boat and store in fresh or salt water. For fresh, use the magnesium and for salt, the aluminum. Many people use the aluminum zincs in fresh water and they will offer some protection but not as much as the magnesium will. Just don't use the magnesium zincs in saltwater or they'll be gone in no time!

If you have the time, take some before and after pics for the rest of use to see, OK?

Good luck,
WetWilly