[Slick Vic]

Hi All....

How's my deal. Bought my MARIAH from a friend, took it out and the hub to the front axel was very hot. Continued the day everything went ok. Took it out two months later drove 20 minutes caught fire on the freeway.

Had the brake completely changed.

Took the boat to the lake this time driving 30 mintues and the brakes started to smoke. Had my brakes were adjusted, continued the day.

Now wheels are not turning as free as they should. Need some help.......

Trailer Rite for my 214 Jubilee

Thanks In Advance....

[WetWilly]

Hi Slick Vic,

Ouch, I can totally relate to your experience! I had a wheel bearing failure on ours while towing through Texas.

A few things can cause the wheels to feel tight, newly or improperly adjusted drum brakes or sticking calipers, pistons or hardened seals on disc brakes, bad, worn, under-lubricated or over tightened wheel bearings and/or races, bad surge brake assembly or reverse lock out, etc....

Your wheels may be a little tight from the braks being adjusted. When adjusted properly, the wheels will have a slight drag when spun. The drag will go away as the shoes wear to the drum.

If you've never worked with trailers before, I recommend you bring it to a "trailer specialty" shop and have them remove all wheels and check the master cylinder assembly, hubs, races, bearings and brakes to insure everything has been check at the same time. Especially if the trailer hasn't seen a complete service in a while.

For the record, do you know what type of brakes you have, electronic, surge, disc or drum (I'm assuming drum as you said you had them adjusted) and how much slack do you have in the safety chains when you tow?

WetWilly

[Slick Vic]

Hey WetWilly.....

Surge and I use a safety chain. Drum brakes. Had them adjusted again, my trailer guy believes it's a bad shock for the surge ??? Jury still out. I shall keep you all up dated.

Thanks Vic

[bdbyrnes]

Originally Posted by Slick Vic

Hey WetWilly.....

Surge and I use a safety chain. Drum brakes. Had them adjusted again, my trailer guy believes it's a bad shock for the surge ??? Jury still out. I shall keep you all up dated.

Thanks Vic

Vic-

Two years ago I rebuilt my trailer - - - best thing I ever did; I now no longer worry about what's happening 'back there' while I am driving. I installed four disc brakes, rotors etc, new brake actuator, new wiring.

You may be able to just replace the actuator up front and that could address the problem for you.

Brent

[Talari240ZinAZ]

5 years ago, I replaced my single-axle drum brakes with disc brakes on both axles along with new actuator and brake lines. Best thing I ever did. Nice not feeling that 4000+ lbs when I'm braking or coming down from Flagstaff to Phoenix. Only regret is that I have the older Tie-Down disc brakes which require you to remove the hub and rotor to change the pads. Recommend vented rotors (newer Tie Downs or Kodiaks).

If you're into DIY, I had good experience buying my stuff through Champion Trailer Supply out of LA. They've got some technical information on their website. They're pricing was competitive back when I bought my stuff. They sell the needed parts in "kits".

[Slick Vic]

Fellas......

Thanks for all the info. I'll be working on my trailer today and tomorrow.

Peace Vic

[Slick Vic]

Fellas........ Thanks for all the input. Changed the ACTUATOR myself and this was the main problem. Towed boat close to 900 miles, hubs never got warm. But all hell broke out with my suburband. That story for another day. Again thanks guys.

Peace Vic

[Slick Vic]

Guys.... When I bought the actuator it was $230.00 bucks. When I got home and replaced it, I noticed another price below the top one for $130.00 bucks. Whats the deal, The shop is in Reseda, Ca. Any comments ??????????

[Z 202]

FWIW, I paid $116 (Cdn) for a full Dico/Titan surge coupler a year ago.