[brianvander]

Well I went out tis past weekend and did it, I bought our first boat (been boating for years with other family members before this). A ‘94 Shabah Z212 5.7 but unfortunately it doesn’t have the Silent Choice Exhaust, Red on Grey. She’s in real good shape, no hull scars, no rips, tears or busted seams in the vinyl, Motor runs and sounds good, Outdrive turns smooth no vibrations.

A few items that don’t work right, but its 18 years old.
1- The ignition Switch is busted, I found the “original parts thread”, contacted Kennedy Marine and they are sending me a replacement key & switch,
2- The Speedo doesn’t work the Gauge is busted, I will probably replace all gauges just to give it a more updated look on the dash,
3- The Depth Sounder on the dash and the Water/Ait Temp Indicator on the Stereo Panel both don’t work, not sure where to start on those.
4- A few of the Rocker Switches are cracked and well worn, I may replace all the rocker switches w/ new Carling Tech switches,
5- The Stereo is the original, this is going to be my winter project. A new Headunit, Speakers, I-Pod Connection, remote, etc... I will need the Trim Plate mine pretty busted up (I can’t seem to find that thread right now, he had drawings and wiring details)
6- Want to replace the Oval Courtesy lights as the plastic on mine are all faded out, found the “Optronics Oval Courtesy Light” thread, I am contacting them for replacements,

But I have a few immediate more pressing questions:

1- On the Lower Right of the Throttle/Shifter (I want to say a “Quick Silver 3000” but that’s off of memory here), there is a ‘RUN-OFF’ red toggle switch. It seems to me that this is the ‘Master Off’ switch and when I have it in the ‘OFF’ position I would think should kill all electrical, however, I can crank the motor (didn’t turn it over as I didn’t have water connected) and run accessories, I don’t recall seeing a difference in the 2 positions, but I didn’t write down the results either. If someone could verify the this switch operation, I would appreciate it.

2- We had a problem raising the outdrive into the trailering position, it appears that the rubber gasket around the switch (on the lower right side of the shifter) is deformed and preventing proper switch contact. Because the switch is ‘floating’ in the rubber gasket and not secured to a fixed surface, pressing the ‘Trailer’ button is simply pushing the whole switch assembly back-n-forth (we ended up raising the outdrive be removing the cover and using a key to make contact, so electrically it works, but the switch mounting is flawed). Is there a replacement switch available for this, maybe changing it out to a different style and affixing to the shifter assembly. Any info here would be helpful.

2a. I saw a post about the shifter being recalled, does anyone know the details about that, or if the recall is still in effect.

A BIG, BIG KUDOS to MariahMan & Shabah250 and all contributing members on this site. I have been reading and watching this site for well over a year and it’s the support of all you members that made me convinced to buy a boat that is no longer “factory supported”. It’s obvious that the members here are quite passionate about their boats and WANT to share their knowledge with others.

I hope I can contribute as well in the future.

Thanks in advance…

Not sure if I'm posting the photos correctly... its appears that Im not, but they are in the Gallery: The Mariah Owners Club - Gallery - Picking up my new ride....

[ShabahZ280]

Congrats on your "new" Mariah!

For your speedo, are you sure the intake just isn't clogged? The intake is on the outdrive in a very easy spot to get clogged with debris. Do a search here for "speedo" and you'll find everything you need to know on how to clean it out. It's very easy. If the gauge is truly busted, the gauges have a lifetime warranty on them. You can contact Faria and they can supply you OEM Mariah replacements. They look the best anyway!

You can find the stereo trim plate, one of our members put together a CAD drawing of it, and another member used it to have some made, which he sells them on ebay for a whopping price of about $150. Unfortunately, if you need to replace it, this is about your only option. If you're able to repair it, most plastic fabrication shops can usually perform the repairs for a lot less.

The switch on the shifter is a "kill switch". It's meant to stay in the run position, and you're supposed to drive with the lanyard attached to you. When the lanyard comes undone (ie if you fall overboard), the switch flips into the off setting and it will instantly cut the boat off, by killing cutting power to the fuel pump and engine controls. It doesn't affect things like the radio, accessories, etc.

I'm not 100% sure, but you should be able to replace the trailer switch. If not, you can probably replace the entire shifter assembly.

Thanks for the kudos on the site. Glad we were able to help you make a good decision. We're a good bunch here, and we're all here to help!

[brianvander]

Hi Chris,
Thanks for the info, Ive checked the port, its clear but I haven't tried to blow out the tube from the speedo using an air compressor, Ill do that, but regardless the gauge is busted.

Its a Kill Switch, I should've realized that, but the previous owner did not have a lanyard and I thought I saw a marker at the base of the radio plate for the lanyard, but it was plugged off so I figured no lanyard was being used.

So is there normally a "Master OFF Switch", so I can kill all electrical while its sitting just so there is no battery drain while not in use?

Thanks

[ShabahZ280]

Originally Posted by brianvander

So is there normally a "Master OFF Switch", so I can kill all electrical while its sitting just so there is no battery drain while not in use?

If you're running a factory dual battery setup, you will use the battery switch located in the engine compartment to turn everything off. If not, you can add a switch with something like this:

BLUE SEA SYSTEMS m-Series Mini Battery Switches at West Marine

[Zackattack]

Congratulations and I am sure glad to know where my twin is. That really looks good with the tinted windows.

Good choice on boats!

[Slash9point5]

Congrats! You will love your Mariah.

Regarding Point 2a. I also was curious if the recall was still in effect and how one would go about getting a new shift assembly and if they include labor or not. Anyone have any additional info on this.

Thank you,

Kris

[brianvander]

An Update...

- New Keyswitch is in...
- The Air/Sea Temp Readout is now working, a found a bad component connection on the backside circuit board, re-soldered that connection and HIP HIP HOORAY it works! Thats a cool feature.
- The Depth Sounder/Indicator Readout is now working as well, found the power connection had disconnected. (I'm glad it wasn't the Transducer in the hull)
- Lower Stereo Panel; Used the template found here on MBOC, modified it slightly for what I needed then had a local machine shop cut it out of 1/8" Aluminum with a WaterJet Cutter. I will then have it wrapped with Carbon Fiber Film, install new Switches and a New Stereo Head Unit. It should look great!! (indulge me while I toot my own horn for a moment)

As far as the QuickSilver recall is concerned, the recall appears to be still good, you must have a boat with the HID (the last 4 digits) between F4xx and I5xx (mine is E4xx, bummer)

I haven't yet purchased the new Stereo Headunit. I dont need a thumping system, just something to connect our I-Pod into. I'm looking at the units on Overstock, they have lots of PYLE. Has anyone installed a PYLE headunit, I'm just curious how it sounds, is it good, decent or not worth it.

Thanks
BrianVander

[93diabloForme]

I bought a super cheap Dual head unit with 2 6.5 speakers in a package for 85 bucks at wal-mart. Has 3.5mm aux input for your ipods and other things i have streamed slacker radio through my phone to it. I will say for the price of some of the better head units out there i dont think the cheapos are worth it.

Overtons sells the rockford fosgate head unit for 100 and clarions and others for not much more.

As with any cheap brand in stereo equipment IE dual and pyle come to mind first they far over-rate there output power. My dual with the 2 speakers in my 18' diablo are not really even audible at speed and when floating are still not loud enough at all. I may be able to get away with just adding another set of speakers, but its really just a band aid at that point.

[brianvander]

I ended up getting a Kenwood Head unit, iPod/Aux inputs w/ USB Charging. lookup my other post, I did a write-up on the replacement of the Stereo Dash Panel & Switch Updates...

http://www.mariahownersclub.com/foru...-new-post.html