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Mark 10-04-2007 11:34 PM

Boat docking
 
I really hate to do it but next summer I have to dock my boat. The question is, should I paint my bottom first? If so, what kind of paint should I purchase, and how should it be applied? I just can't wait in boat ramp lines anymore, especially when I have a weak wife who can't help much. :shakehead: Thanks Mark

ShabahZ280 10-05-2007 12:07 AM

Mark, check out Interlux. They make all sorts of paints, and are available in many stores like West Marine, Boaters World, etc. You can do it yourself, or pay someone to do it.

But yes, you should definitely do it before you put the boat in the water.

mikeyt 10-05-2007 02:56 AM

I wuz more concerned about which 'bottom' he wanted to paint....his or his boat's. :eek_animated:

WetWilly 10-05-2007 03:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mikeyt (Post 1903)
I wuz more concerned about which 'bottom' he wanted to paint....his or his boat's. :eek_animated:


Oh m'god mikey.... hope you weren't getting a visual while thinking about that one..........:very_scared:

Gotta admit though, I was almost there too..but hey, I'm losing my mind so I can get away with it!!!!! :yoyo:


Seriously though, ShabahZ250 is right, paint the bottom.

One more thing, if your running a Mercruiser outdrive, you might want to follow their advice (got this from their web site): http://www.mercurymarine.com/service...osion.php#1174

Can I use anti-fouling paint?

Anti-fouling paint may be applied to boat hull and boat transom, but you must observe the following precautions:

* IMPORTANT: DO NOT paint anodes or MerCathode system reference electrode and anode, as this will render them ineffective as galvanic corrosion inhibitors.
* IMPORTANT: If anti-fouling protection is required for boat hull or boat transom, copper or tin based paints can be used if not prohibited by law. When using copper or tin based anti-fouling paints, you should avoid any electrical interconnection between the MerCruiser product, anodic blocks, or MerCathode system and the paint. Allow a minimum of 1-1/2 in.
(40 mm) UNPAINTED area on the transom of the boat around these items.
* Sterndrive unit and transom assembly should be painted with a good quality marine paint or an anti-fouling paint that DOES NOT contain copper, tin, or any other material that could conduct electrical current. Do not paint drain holes, anodes, MerCathode system, and items specified by the boat manufacturer.


Good luck,
WetWilly

indykoch 10-05-2007 03:18 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Mark,

Great advice here. I agree, get the bottom paint. I don't know what your waterway is like, but mine's terribly full of marine growth (a.k.a. SLIME). I slip mine all year. It had a new coat of bottom paint and still had some growth (see pic). I've heard of boats losing 10-15 MPH, blistering of the gel coat, etc. from the slime. It may not look great, but it's well worth it. I'm leasing a lift next year so I don't have to deal with any of it anymore. It's a pain to clean it off!

ShabahZ280 10-05-2007 07:19 PM

whoa, you can lease lifts? nice!!

now what about the smart tabs, do they recommend painting those? i never thought about that!

WetWilly 10-05-2007 09:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ShabahZ250 (Post 1915)
whoa, you can lease lifts? nice!!

now what about the smart tabs, do they recommend painting those? i never thought about that!


Hi ShabahZ250,

According to Boat Leveler Co., the brand Mariah used most, you paint just the metal tabs.

I quote:

"Painting of Tabs

In order to keep growth from Cylinders and tabs, we recommend you see your local marine paint supplier for proper primer and anti-fouling paint. Caution: Do Not Paint Cylinder Rams
"

And this is what Bennet had to say:

"How do I paint my trim tabs?

The secret to getting anti-fouling paint to adhere to your trim tabs is proper priming, and the best people to tell you what to do are the experts at the company that makes your anti-fouling paint. We strongly suggest that you contact the paint manufacturer and tell them you are painting "304 stainless steel" trim tabs, then follow their recommendations to the letter! Remember don't paint under the zincs.
"


I would assume it would be the same for Smart Tab brand trim tabs too. I believe the normal Anti-fouling paint can affect the plastic Rams but I remember hearing there is a anti-fouling paint safe for the Rams but I don't know the brand or name.

WetWilly

Mark 10-06-2007 05:27 PM

This is for Mikeyt . Should I stay away from my port hole when I paint ?:eek_animated: Did I say that. Thanks for all the help guys you to mikeyt.

mikeyt 10-07-2007 06:13 PM

You might want to stay away from your bilge hole though....:rolling_laugh:

Best of luck with the bottom painting. Let us know what product you choose & how it works out.

indykoch 10-08-2007 05:31 PM

Yeah, my marina leases slips with and without lifts. Supposedly, they adjust the bunks to fit your specific boat, but I'll be the judge of that.

I don't remember where I saw it, but I believe Smart Tabs aren't supposed to be painted. They're stainless steel and the actuators have a rubber sleeve. I'll see how they look when I pull it out in a couple weeks. I'm hoping it's nothing the power washer I just got can't take care of!!

Mark 10-15-2007 10:47 PM

Hey guys Did anyone ever put on a shedding paint for the ( HULL)?A local paint store that sells this paint said it is the best. ( Schilling enamels Cleveland area )Still dont know what kind to put on but still looking. He told me the paint will shed off with the slime and other good stuff.Told me it will last 2yrs with one coat.What do you think. Thanks Mark

indykoch 10-16-2007 05:32 PM

I've never heard of the "shedding" paint, but I can only imagine the mess it leaves in your driveway after cleaning it off!!!

The common bottom paint contains a lot of copper which is what resists marine growth. Supposedly, the growth can't survive on it. Eventually, the copper dissolves over time, and requires a new coat every 2 or 3 years. If left neglected, the hull will start to show through, and the algae can start adhering to the fiberglass again. I don't know if that's what your paint store was referring to or not, but all bottom paints dissolve and lose their effectiveness eventually.

I'm looking to remove the paint this winter, but I'm not sure how to do it yet. The pressure washer should be a big help, but I'm worried about the disposal of it and any "yellowing" of the fiberglass underneath. I'll post on the "how to" section once I tackle it.

Mark 10-16-2007 09:52 PM

How high over the water line did you paint?

indykoch 10-17-2007 01:11 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Mine was painted by a full service marina/dealership that I bought it from. They painted almost exactly to the water line, Maybe a half inch to an inch above. Here's a picture that may help...

DrMatthewDunn 04-02-2008 02:26 AM

Environmentally Friendly Bottom Paint Options
 
Nice to see the boat industry looking hard at lowering environmental impacts. The traditional bottom-paint options have been either "let the paint flake off into the water" (ablative) or "slow poison" (copper, etc.) Wearing out hulls & building new boats isn't a better alternative, though! Looks like there are options.

1) ePaint ZO "Recommended for use on commercial and recreational vessels and for aluminum boats as an effective alternative to tin and copper-based products . EP-ZO contains a newly approved environmentally friendly active ingredient that controls biofouling even in most high fouling areas."

2) Super Slick boat wax.

Stripping
1) Article on environment (and boat owner) friendly stripping compounds.
2) Baking Soda Blast - interesting

I'm going to keep researching, will post research + action here. Suggestions or discussion welcome of course.


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