[mikeyt]

Good luck at hitting 52mph. If you're using a 21"pitch prop you might come close to that but the 21" is lousy for waterskiing/wakeboarding/tubing etc. It's better at long cruises in the 40mph range.

I'm running a 4 blade - 20" SS Apollo prop on mine which gives me a top speed of 48-49mph at 4800rpm. The 3 blade - 19" should be very similar. The thing i like about my prop is that it gives a very good hole shot along with lots of acceleration in the mid range and bite in the turns. I have a 15 yr old who loves to wakeboard and this prop does a good job with him back there. I think there are a couple of other members here that run the High 5 prop and report excellent results from it also but at a much higher cost. Unfortunately even two people with the same boat/motor/outdrive/prop combos dont always get the same performance results due to variances in engine tune, extra weight in the boat etc.

The one thing about the Smart Tabs that i've heard a few people mention is that they tend to flatten out the wake which some skiiers/boarders dont like. I havent really noticed it with mine and haven't heard any complaints......not that he wants to complain when i'm draggin' him behind the boat!

[Paul F]

Hey, Tom,

I beg to differ regarding the tab under the cavitation plate. That adjustable tab is to correct for steering torque. I had one on my outboard and it can be adjusted to reduce pull on the steering wheel, but should not have any affect on the list to port.

You don't have one because you have power steering and therefore it's not necessary.

My list to port is caused by the torque of my prop turning clockwise. If the prop turned counterclockwise, the list would be to starboard. For every action, there is an opposite reaction.

I found that trimming out my drive helps. The type of prop and diameter of the prop also make a difference.

I found out the hard way last summer when I bent by 14.25 x 19 Stilletto SS prop on a wing dam. I put back on my stock 14x 19 aluminum prop back on the boat. The list to port was greatly reduced. I think it's because of the smaller diameter, perhaps more flex to the aluminum or less cup on the blades.

That's my theory, anyway........

[depman160]

this may sound like a dumb question, but how exactly do these Smart tabs work? I am familiar with trim tabs on larger boats and how you can adjust them, but what makes the Smart Tabs different? And why are they so much better that the hydrafoil things that attach to the outdrive?

[mikeyt]

Originally Posted by depman160

this may sound like a dumb question, but how exactly do these Smart tabs work? I am familiar with trim tabs on larger boats and how you can adjust them, but what makes the Smart Tabs different? And why are they so much better that the hydrafoil things that attach to the outdrive?

Well, ya got one on each side of the boat rather than just one in the middle so you have more surface area lifting the stern evenly. The Smart tabs actually move up & down slightly (thru the actuators) depending on the load presented to them so they can in effect 'self adjust' to the conditions such as low speed wandering, hauling tubers/boarders or simply high speed cruising. You can set the mid point of the movement by choosing one of the 5 pivot holes when you mount them, although most applications will be in the 2-3-4 position, which allows you to adjust them to your particular boat. I also recall someone mentioning that they set one tab in one position and the other in a different position to help correct a lean while under way. And last, when first setting out on a run you shouldn't need to trim your drive in as much as you likely already do because the tabs help lift the stern & get you onto plane much faster.

[mikeyt]

Originally Posted by Paul F

Hey, Tom,

I beg to differ regarding the tab under the cavitation plate. That adjustable tab is to correct for steering torque. I had one on my outboard and it can be adjusted to reduce pull on the steering wheel, but should not have any affect on the list to port.

You don't have one because you have power steering and therefore it's not necessary.

My list to port is caused by the torque of my prop turning clockwise. If the prop turned counterclockwise, the list would be to starboard. For every action, there is an opposite reaction.

I found that trimming out my drive helps. The type of prop and diameter of the prop also make a difference.

I found out the hard way last summer when I bent by 14.25 x 19 Stilletto SS prop on a wing dam. I put back on my stock 14x 19 aluminum prop back on the boat. The list to port was greatly reduced. I think it's because of the smaller diameter, perhaps more flex to the aluminum or less cup on the blades.

That's my theory, anyway........

Hi Paul

That was what i always understood the adjustable anode fin affected but i did have an old prop guy tell me that if you dont adjust the anodes to correct for torque steer properly they can cause a slight lean. So i guess he was telling me in a round about way that having the fin adjusted correctly would help prevent that little lean. I guess i can see his theory but that said, i never seen it in real life and as you correctly pointed out, we shouldn't need them on our boats because of the power steering. Personally i think Tom's lean is more likely due to uneven weight distribution in the boat coupled with trimming the bow down too much due to the boating conditions on his lake but the change in anode is a reasonably cheap fix if it works.

[Paul F]

Depman: Think of them as shock absorbers for you boat. The tabs are connected to the hull with a strut that moves to water pressure. They will also smooth out your ride in rough water. Unless you're wanting a large wake for wakeboarding, you will absolutely love the results. All for well under $200.00!

Mikey: I agree, if you have to move slowly in the drive tucked in, you'll need to move some weight to starboard. The great thing about smartabs is they will allow you to trim out more at slower speeds and still stay on plane.

[jeffro788]

Mikey, I do have a 13.75x21" 3 blade aluminum, I haven't ran it without that hydrafoil yet, but it almost seemed to cavitate once you got to a certain speed, I wondered if it would be enough to pull a skier or wakboarder. I had a bad feeling though. That 20" 4 blade sounded great, but I thought about a 14.5x21" ss 3 blade. I am just glad to hear from you since you have the same boat, eventhough they might run a little different due to tuning and etc... I still believe you will have a closer comparison than any other boat.

[Paul F]

Jeffro,
If it were me, I would add the smart tabs first, then make decisions about the prop.

Smart tabs are cheaper than props and the tabs will help tell you what your next step should be.

Paul

[jeffro788]

That is probably the best idea, I was going to ask advice on that. I actually work part time for Gander Mtn and come to find out we sell smart tabs and with the good old employee discount I can get the smart tabs for $104!! woohoo!

I think there is a place in Hot Springs that I can actually demo props, so I may go that route after the tabs, but I am now leaning toward a 4 blade instead of a 3 blade.

[mikeyt]

I agree with Paul at this point. The Smart tabs would be my first option & once installed and properly set, see what your performance is like before considering splurging on a prop. I also believe that the Smart Tabs combined with a 3 blade - 19" aluminum prop (less $$ than SS) will give you a much improved hole shot & mid speed cruising ability. Running the boat at top speed only wears parts out faster along with increasing your fuel bill anyway so i think you would be more satisfied with the improved start & mid-range performance. The 20" - 4 blade SS is a nice but not really necessary extra and if you can get the Smart Tabs for $104....damm, go for it!