[jasfiveo]

I am getting my boat winterized for the first time (just bought the boat in May 1994 Talari 220Z) and wanted to do some comparing of costs. The plans are as follows:

1) silver $199: Flush cooling system, add antifreeze, add fuel stablizer (Ethanol Formula), replace imp shaft reservoir oil, fog internal engine, inspect and lube throttle cables, spray engine with silicone, change spark plugs and fuel filter. This also includes free summerization.

2) Gold $349 or $449 for sterndrive: Everything above plus changing your water pump impeller and gear lube, synchronizing your carbs or fuel injection system (sterndrive motors include changing your oil and filter), grease all fittings, check compression and a complete inspection of motor. Plus a basic wash.

I have not called around to price compare because I would have to get the boat (40 miles roundtrip plus mileage to and from another shop plus my time and gas) and it is easier just to let my marina do it simply by placing a phone call.

Could you guys post some prices you pay for winterizing? I can't believe the season is already over.

[180diablo]

Mine, $500 (canadian) and taxes ($540 somewhere?).

$50 for a bottom wash
$200 and change for winterizing
$200 and change for covered shed storage

Then whatever is needed in the spring, add that on top of. I can update this post later on tonight with proper figures.

[indykoch]

I just received a quote from a local place that was $225.00 for winterization. I think it was like your "silver" service, but I'm sure it didn't include new spark plugs and fuel filter. They add an oil change for $100.00.

[ShabahZ280]

I was quoted at $158.75 which is just an antifreeze flush, engine fogging, and fuel stabilizer in the tank. Prices went all the way up to $550+, depending on if i've got "the expensive oil filter or not".

I opted for the basic winterization and oil change, which is supposedly going to run me around $283, unless I've got "the expensive oil filter", which will run the price up to around $320ish.

I think it's time I learn to start doing this myself!

[jasfiveo]

Sounds like I am getting a fair price. Thanks for sharing.

[Tom]

I bought the winterizing tank from West Marine for $ 35, bought $ 15 of RV non-toxic anti-freeze, replaced oil for $ 30(filter and synthetic oil), took the plugs out and squirted oil in each cylinder and replaced the plugs. $ 80 total, but I won't have to buy the tank next year. This next spring I'll pay for someone to take off the outdrive, getting too old for that stuff and I'll put a new distributor cap and rotor on and new plug wires, probably new plugs depending on how she starts. I replaced the plugs this past spring so they should be okay. Gives you more money for the go juice when summer comes if you can do some of this yourself, besides it's fun and self-esteem building, unless of course you screw it up!!

[wonsnam]

Originally Posted by Tom

I bought the winterizing tank from West Marine for $ 35, bought $ 15 of RV non-toxic anti-freeze, replaced oil for $ 30(filter and synthetic oil), took the plugs out and squirted oil in each cylinder and replaced the plugs. $ 80 total, but I won't have to buy the tank next year. This next spring I'll pay for someone to take off the outdrive, getting too old for that stuff and I'll put a new distributor cap and rotor on and new plug wires, probably new plugs depending on how she starts. I replaced the plugs this past spring so they should be okay. Gives you more money for the go juice when summer comes if you can do some of this yourself, besides it's fun and self-esteem building, unless of course you screw it up!!

I 'll second that!!! "unless you screw it up" I was able to buy my Z201 Cheap Cheap because the previous owner winterized her himself. he drained the exhaust manifolds but missed the drains in the block, she cracked in five places as well as blowing out freeze plugs. I have found that the RV anti-freeze tends to help rust form in the inside of the block so I make sure I add water pump lube in the spring when I fire her up on ear muffs. Also I always drain a bit of lube from the stern drive unit to check for water, if it is milky or water comes out of the drain I drain it completely. remove it from the boat so I can reseal it over the winter. I grease all fittings with quality grease and stuff an oily rag in the bellows to protect them from winters cold and critters. I make sure to take the whole drain plug out and stick a small diameter rod though the hole in the block to make sure rust hasn't blocked it up. I do the same with the heat exchangers remove cover on sea water pump if not built in to the out drive I run the engine and fog it til it stalls change plugs in spring. I leave all hatches open and park boat with 30 degree additude on bow up this way snow and water are sure to run off, also allows bilge to drain back to transome where I have removed the drain plug so any water collected during the summer will find it's way out over winter. the whole process doesn't take more than an hour or two, then covering the boat is another hour or so. i make the frame work out good lumber so I can take it apart and reuse the following year. I also use heavy mill plastic to cover the boat the winter sun act like a greenhouse and tends to keep the inside dry and heated.

[mikeyt]

Here's what my local marine guy charges. Labour prices increased about 40% this year!


ECONOMY: Start & run, fog engine, check engine oil, check drive oil,

drain block & add anti-freeze, add fuel stabilizer, dial prop shaft

$137.50


SILVER: Start & run, fog engine, change engine oil & filter, change gear lube,

drain block & add anti-freeze, add fuel stabilizer, check all fluid levels,

grease lower unit, grease gimbal bearing, dial prop shaft

$222.50

GOLD: Start & run, fog engine, change engine oil & filter, change gear lube,

drain block & add anti-freeze, add fuel stabilizer, check all fluid levels,

grease lower unit, grease gimbal bearing, change fuel filter, check for any

leaks, clean flame arrestor, remove drive & grease universal, check engine

alignment, check bellows, check trim & tilt operation, trim up drive, dial prop shaft

$307.50


Pricing is labour only. All parts & supplies are extra (ie. Oils, filters, gaskets, anti-freeze, oil disposal, etc.)

[All In]

I had mine done last year by the marina and it cost about 300$ but I had the piece of mind that it was done right and I did not have to worry. This year I did it myself and found it challenging but rewarding. The cost this year was under 100$but I had to buy a pump for the lower unit lube and a pump to remove the oil which I won't have to do next year. I just hope that I did it right and I won't have a huge mess come spring. I agree that it is hard to pay a doctors wage for something that you can do yourself but in the back of my mind there is still piece of mind that it was done right and there are no worries.

[WetWilly]

Hi All In,

I know how you feel, it can seem intimidating doing it for the first time, but I find that if you use a pre and post winterizing check list, it makes things go a lot smother until you're familiar and confident with the routine and in doing so, you'll soon have "piece of mind" with your own work!

If you've followed the "to do" items based on the information our members, the links they provided and/or the manual insuring all the water is out of your I/O or properly mixed with anti-freeze and the motor is fogged, then you're right on track. As for the oils and filters, that's just part of the regular maintenance like a car so you'll get used to that quickly enough.

So have faith in your work and come spring, pull out that check list, prep you Shabah and soon you'll be back on the water and you'll have a few more bucks for gas too!

Great job,
WetWilly