[ROY850]

I've owned my boat for almost a year now, I don't have any brakes on my trailer. I have the most annoying popping sound anytime I come to a stop and take off. I have a 96 chariot which shows on my title but from the looks of it looks like the dealer that had it repainted and relabeled to prestige, because the color code on the vin of the trailer doesn't even match it supposed to be tan and my trailer is blue. Anyway getting off subject has anybody ever replaced the actuator/coupler on there trailer and if so what actuator/coupler did you use. I don't know jack about trailers but I'm a very very quick learner, I'm very handy. I came across one online that might work but before I do I kinda wanted someone's input on it. Here is the one I found. I appreciate any help guys. Thanks


Online actuator/coupler


This is my trailer




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[ROY850]

Originally Posted by ROY850

I've owned my boat for almost a year now, I don't have any brakes on my trailer. I have the most annoying popping sound anytime I come to a stop and take off. I have a 96 chariot which shows on my title but from the looks of it looks like the dealer that had it repainted and relabeled to prestige, because the color code on the vin of the trailer doesn't even match it supposed to be tan and my trailer is blue. Anyway getting off subject has anybody ever replaced the actuator/coupler on there trailer and if so what actuator/coupler did you use. I don't know jack about trailers but I'm a very very quick learner, I'm very handy. I came across one online that might work but before I do I kinda wanted someone's input on it. Here is the one I found. I appreciate any help guys. Thanks


Online actuator/coupler


This is my trailer




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I'm assuming it's my actuator that is out from it being dried and rusted inside the reservoir that's why I am posting this actuator


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[Firestone]

Contributing members have access to the owner's manual for these. I am looking to replace the shock inside mine because of the clunking sound after stopping, but my brakes still work. You could look at replacing it with a electric brake if your hydraulic lines are shot as well. Have you tried cleaning it out, bleeding the breaks? Might be pointless if the system is broken.

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[TN_Diablo]

So are you saying you don't have any brakes or the brakes don't work. I'll assume the later.

If you have a hydraulic brake actuator for a coupler that has gone bad it probably will jolt around. There is usually a shock absorber/spring inside of these but the hydraulic force also helps cushion movement. So if the coupler is bad and the brakes don't work you could also have bad wheel cylinders or calipers that also need to be rebuilt/replaced and lines that need to be flushed or even replaced if water has contaminated them.

Sometimes individual parts are available for the couplers but sometimes if a few things are bad you might as well replace the whole thing. But even replacing the whole coupler won't fix your problems if anything downstream of it is bad and you can't bleed and re-establish a good hydraulic circuit.

My experience has been the reservoir on these can be contaminated with water over time and rust like crazy to the point the master cylinder is useless when it is all ignored until it is all shot.

Even though I bleed my brakes every 2-3 years I've been through one master cylinder that got rusty. Caught it before anything else was ruined. I also try to keep a bag over my actuator to keep the rain off it too.

[ROY850]

So it there a lot of work involved to switch to electric brakes? I've seen the kits on etrailer and it's like 60-80 bucks per side and assume I'm needing to convert my tow harness plug as well so I need to run wiring. Anything else I need Im sure there is?


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[ROY850]

Originally Posted by TN_Diablo

So are you saying you don't have any brakes or the brakes don't work. I'll assume the later.



If you have a hydraulic brake actuator for a coupler that has gone bad it probably will jolt around. There is usually a shock absorber/spring inside of these but the hydraulic force also helps cushion movement. So if the coupler is bad and the brakes don't work you could also have bad wheel cylinders or calipers that also need to be rebuilt/replaced and lines that need to be flushed or even replaced if water has contaminated them.



Sometimes individual parts are available for the couplers but sometimes if a few things are bad you might as well replace the whole thing. But even replacing the whole coupler won't fix your problems if anything downstream of it is bad and you can't bleed and re-establish a good hydraulic circuit.



My experience has been the reservoir on these can be contaminated with water over time and rust like crazy to the point the master cylinder is useless when it is all ignored until it is all shot.



Even though I bleed my brakes every 2-3 years I've been through one master cylinder that got rusty. Caught it before anything else was ruined. I also try to keep a bag over my actuator to keep the rain off it too.

Honesty I don't even know if I have working brakes I just know the reservoir was super rusted and I tried to to loosen the bleeders and the damn things were rusted as well. I didn't have any proper tools to remove the bleeders l, I couldn't get to them in the tight spot I was in


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[TN_Diablo]

What I would do is spray the bleeder screws down with PB Blaster then leave it overnight or longer, maybe re-apply periodically.

While it is soaking remove the actuator with the master cylinder, disconnecting the hydraulic line from it. See what if anything drips out of that line. If it is yellowish brake fluid and not all rusty looking that would be a good sign. Maybe the rust is confined to the master.

Now after a long soak of the bleeder screws use a good fitting 6 point socket to try to loosen them. Anything else will probably round them off. If they have already rounded off use a vice grips placed good and tight but realize you WILL be replacing them at this point. A lot of auto parts stores sell bleeder screws and I'm sure there is nothing special about yours. Replacing them in either case with a bit of grease or anti-seize on the threads is a good idea... IF

It's probably a long shot that IF you get the bleeder screws out and IF the fluid isn't full of rusty nastiness that the brake actuator hardware at the axle is OK and doesn't need some work. If you put on a new master tongue actuator the brakes may still not work if you can bleed new fluid through.

You might first see if the axle parts will even move or if they are frozen. There may come a point when you determine the brakes are frozen up and need to be rebuilt and you already know the actuator needs to be rebuilt/replaced. It will add up and maybe you are better off to convert to electric.

I llike good hydraulic surge brakes and think they work nicely if in good order. Another component most hydraulic systems like this will have is a lock out so you can back up with out the brakes trying to lock. So there is another thing to check out. Some like mine use a solenoid that has to be tied to the back up lights and some are mechanical lever.

Do you live where trailer brakes are required? Not that anyone will check. Is you tow vehicle sturdy enough to just deal with no brakes? In my case, TN does not require it but I feel it would be a safety concern with our tow vehicle.

[Firestone]

Mine looks the same and has the back up lock out on the bottom behind the receiver. Never had to use it until I tried backing the empty trailer uphill. Locked up both side so I know the work lol

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[ROY850]

Originally Posted by TN_Diablo

What I would do is spray the bleeder screws down with PB Blaster then leave it overnight or longer, maybe re-apply periodically.



While it is soaking remove the actuator with the master cylinder, disconnecting the hydraulic line from it. See what if anything drips out of that line. If it is yellowish brake fluid and not all rusty looking that would be a good sign. Maybe the rust is confined to the master.



Now after a long soak of the bleeder screws use a good fitting 6 point socket to try to loosen them. Anything else will probably round them off. If they have already rounded off use a vice grips placed good and tight but realize you WILL be replacing them at this point. A lot of auto parts stores sell bleeder screws and I'm sure there is nothing special about yours. Replacing them in either case with a bit of grease or anti-seize on the threads is a good idea... IF



It's probably a long shot that IF you get the bleeder screws out and IF the fluid isn't full of rusty nastiness that the brake actuator hardware at the axle is OK and doesn't need some work. If you put on a new master tongue actuator the brakes may still not work if you can bleed new fluid through.



You might first see if the axle parts will even move or if they are frozen. There may come a point when you determine the brakes are frozen up and need to be rebuilt and you already know the actuator needs to be rebuilt/replaced. It will add up and maybe you are better off to convert to electric.



I llike good hydraulic surge brakes and think they work nicely if in good order. Another component most hydraulic systems like this will have is a lock out so you can back up with out the brakes trying to lock. So there is another thing to check out. Some like mine use a solenoid that has to be tied to the back up lights and some are mechanical lever.



Do you live where trailer brakes are required? Not that anyone will check. Is you tow vehicle sturdy enough to just deal with no brakes? In my case, TN does not require it but I feel it would be a safety concern with our tow vehicle.

You are absolutely right I think I will need do that, I live in Tx, it's not required. It is only on certain weight trailers over GW of 4500 lbs. My vehicle can handle the weight I tow but it would be very helpful to have when jackasses cut me off and the other car in front of them brakes causing me to slam on mine. I might need to inspect my brakes and see what they look like first and if they need replacement might as well replace cylinders and pads while I'm down there and bleed the lines just like like you mentioned. Man I really appreciate all you input. You've been very helpful.


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[TN_Diablo]

In the picture posted by Roy850 the actuator slide is all the way back in the housing. At rest it should be all the way forward, or nearly. Mine is different but they sit at rest forward and the and the weight of the trailer forces it back when you brake the tow vehicle and applies the brakes. So your brakes are broke and I imagine the whole slide slams back and forth every time you try to move forward or slow down.