Originally Posted by ROY850 (Post 63270)

I've owned my boat for almost a year now, I don't have any brakes on my trailer. I have the most annoying popping sound anytime I come to a stop and take off. I have a 96 chariot which shows on my title but from the looks of it looks like the dealer that had it repainted and relabeled to prestige, because the color code on the vin of the trailer doesn't even match it supposed to be tan and my trailer is blue. Anyway getting off subject has anybody ever replaced the actuator/coupler on there trailer and if so what actuator/coupler did you use. I don't know jack about trailers but I'm a very very quick learner, I'm very handy. I came across one online that might work but before I do I kinda wanted someone's input on it. Here is the one I found. I appreciate any help guys. Thanks

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...c2b9d22c60.png
Online actuator/coupler

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...b530f7ba24.jpg
This is my trailer




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Originally Posted by TN_Diablo (Post 63274)

So are you saying you don't have any brakes or the brakes don't work. I'll assume the later.



If you have a hydraulic brake actuator for a coupler that has gone bad it probably will jolt around. There is usually a shock absorber/spring inside of these but the hydraulic force also helps cushion movement. So if the coupler is bad and the brakes don't work you could also have bad wheel cylinders or calipers that also need to be rebuilt/replaced and lines that need to be flushed or even replaced if water has contaminated them.



Sometimes individual parts are available for the couplers but sometimes if a few things are bad you might as well replace the whole thing. But even replacing the whole coupler won't fix your problems if anything downstream of it is bad and you can't bleed and re-establish a good hydraulic circuit.



My experience has been the reservoir on these can be contaminated with water over time and rust like crazy to the point the master cylinder is useless when it is all ignored until it is all shot.



Even though I bleed my brakes every 2-3 years I've been through one master cylinder that got rusty. Caught it before anything else was ruined. I also try to keep a bag over my actuator to keep the rain off it too.

Originally Posted by TN_Diablo (Post 63277)

What I would do is spray the bleeder screws down with PB Blaster then leave it overnight or longer, maybe re-apply periodically.



While it is soaking remove the actuator with the master cylinder, disconnecting the hydraulic line from it. See what if anything drips out of that line. If it is yellowish brake fluid and not all rusty looking that would be a good sign. Maybe the rust is confined to the master.



Now after a long soak of the bleeder screws use a good fitting 6 point socket to try to loosen them. Anything else will probably round them off. If they have already rounded off use a vice grips placed good and tight but realize you WILL be replacing them at this point. A lot of auto parts stores sell bleeder screws and I'm sure there is nothing special about yours. Replacing them in either case with a bit of grease or anti-seize on the threads is a good idea... IF



It's probably a long shot that IF you get the bleeder screws out and IF the fluid isn't full of rusty nastiness that the brake actuator hardware at the axle is OK and doesn't need some work. If you put on a new master tongue actuator the brakes may still not work if you can bleed new fluid through.



You might first see if the axle parts will even move or if they are frozen. There may come a point when you determine the brakes are frozen up and need to be rebuilt and you already know the actuator needs to be rebuilt/replaced. It will add up and maybe you are better off to convert to electric.



I llike good hydraulic surge brakes and think they work nicely if in good order. Another component most hydraulic systems like this will have is a lock out so you can back up with out the brakes trying to lock. So there is another thing to check out. Some like mine use a solenoid that has to be tied to the back up lights and some are mechanical lever.



Do you live where trailer brakes are required? Not that anyone will check. Is you tow vehicle sturdy enough to just deal with no brakes? In my case, TN does not require it but I feel it would be a safety concern with our tow vehicle.

Originally Posted by Firestone (Post 63273)

Contributing members have access to the owner's manual for these. I am looking to replace the shock inside mine because of the clunking sound after stopping, but my brakes still work. You could look at replacing it with a electric brake if your hydraulic lines are shot as well. Have you tried cleaning it out, bleeding the breaks? Might be pointless if the system is broken.

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Originally Posted by TN_Diablo (Post 63281)

Roy you would be doing yourself a favor to have working brakes like you said even though it's a pain and dirty work to get after the problem.



Another thing to do us all a favor is make sure all your lights are working. High on my all time list of pet peeves is people who haul trailers with no working lights. Then drive like idiots to boot. Lawncare 'professionals' are the worst and they make a couple other of my top peeves. I digress :shakehead:

Originally Posted by Brian Belcher (Post 63295)

I just redid all of my brakes on my trailer. I replaced everything in the tongue and actually made a video of how do it. It's not too difficult but it required me having to cut four holesaw holes to get to the four bolts that hold the master cylinder in. Now, I have the trailer that came with my boat in '97. Triple axle monster. Im available if you need any tips on getting it done. BTW. Do not go electric. The braking forces between electric and surge is apples to oranges. You have MUCH better brakes with a surge.