Tight pass through
 

Hi All,
I have a 2000 Shabah 182. After all these years the only problem I have is my window seems to have shifted.
I have to beat on the center window to open and close it. The space top to bottom seems consistent and to me it looks like the driver side window has shifted a little.

Does anyone know how the window attaches to the hull??
Is it just screwed in under the weather stripping or do I need to get under the dash?

Any help on this problem would be greatly appreciated...

Barry

Re: Tight pass through
 

To the best of my knowledge, the windshields are just screwed into the upper hull with screws located under the weather stripping at the bottom of the windshield.

However, I'll warn you in advance to be extremely careful when doing this. Locating a replacement windshield and/or glass has proven to be quite an expensive endeavor for some of our members...

Re: Tight pass through
 

I'm thinking mine is bolted on with backing plates behind the nuts. I'll look tomorrow.

Re: Tight pass through
 

My hatch window also has trouble closing. I noticed that if I pull up on the drivers' side windshield the hatch closes much easier. The bracket that holds the windshield frame in place was loose and it appears it may have gotten slightly bent from the original angle. I think this is contributing to my problem anyway. Try lifting the windshield as you close the hatch window which might tell you if it's a bracket issue. I'm not familiar with the 2000 design so not sure if this applies.

Re: Tight pass through
 

Scottie1961, are these the bolts you are talking about? I can not close my center glass due to the alignment. Little nervous to even try due to the cost.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...12b1afc62c.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...3ae355b6b9.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...5d5d622361.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...483c246407.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...69f77e19b7.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...bdf8f0f023.jpg

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Re: Tight pass through
 

Mine is like that too although maybe not so bad. I have thought about taking out the glass pane and having about 1/4" cut from the side and making the window a bit narrower by trimming the frame pieces. When the boat is on the lift, it is far worse, maybe 1/2" overlap. I made a simple cross brace to keep from squeezing the boat too much.

All this is to be expected from a design that has no cross beams.

Re: Tight pass through
 

I had the exact same issue with the center glass on my 1999 202 Shabah. It would overlap just a tad so when I would shut it, it would hit the frame. I ended removing my windshield because I sent it out to get tinted, I figure I would readjust the glass when I reinstalled it. So when I did reinstall it I ended up moving it a couple millimeters over, when I did I locked the center glass and made sure I shimmed it just a bit with cardboard. I drilled new holes because I just couldn't take it anymore, but it came out great and haven't had a issue with it since. I didn't have all those brackets like some of the others pics. All I did was remove the weatherstrip and removed all the screws and wallah! Off it goes. The only side I adjusted and drilled new holes was the right side of the windshield. I made sure and measured both sides of the windshield when I drilled everything back in. Measurements were not off by much at all. Here are some pics of it helps, I didn't have any of the glass when it was hitting the frame. Good luck sir

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...0dbd192449.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...6995f9a66f.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...ad4289b6bf.jpg


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Re: Tight pass through
 

This is the same issue i had on mine! It's been corrected though


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Re: Tight pass through
 

Thanks for the info Roy850. That tint looks great by the way.

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Re: Tight pass through
 

No, those bolts are for the dash molding on each side. The windshield uses wood screws that go into the plywood panels encased in fiberglass below the deck. The plywood is about 1/2" thick and the screws do not normally protrude below. I discovered all this while removing the molding to install a grab bar. The bar was needed because there is no first mate chair, just a sideways bench seat and the occupant had nothing to hang on to while accelerating.

Re: Tight pass through
 

Garydoug. Thank you so much for the great pictures and explanation. So how do I access these screw for the windshield? Do I need to disassemble the windshield from the top to access the screws below?

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Re: Tight pass through
 

There should be a black rubber tube(?) or strip(?) in the track at the bottom of the windshield frame. I noticed that my windshield was slightly loose at one end, and so I slid back the rubber tube in the track until I could reach the screwhead from the top. It may be that the tube can be pulled out of the track or maybe slid out one end. I didn't need to go that far. I'm sure Roy can tell you how to get access since he had removed his entire windshield. The screws are only reached from the top. They don't go all the way through the deck.

Re: Tight pass through
 

If you have the same setup this how I started removing my windshield. If you have help use it. Lol! Just to hold up glass from collapsing when removing screws.This glass gets heavy especially the front windshield section if you are doing it by yourself. I wish I would have taken more pictures to be more specific and detailed but I went with what I had. Sorry I don't have a picture on this but before removing the entire windshield I would do the center glass first to take some of the weight off the passenger side, https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...5d549a1a8d.jpgyou can start by taking the upper and lower pins of the hinged area but this is how much I can remember to remove windshield

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...5514d496db.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...5469de8dc4.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...d582d7bc02.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...58d5aa1342.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...fe1efa2d3c.jpg

Re: Tight pass through
 

Thank you so much Roy850! Great pictures with your description. This should be a sticky!

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Re: Tight pass through
 

So I really looked at my windshield yesterday and it is about 7/16" out. There is some play with the drivers side and none on the other. How does this happen? Looks like it has been this way for a while based on the damage to the window frame. Anyone have thoughts on a repair besides cutting the center window down? I thought about slotting the holes in the frame verse drilling new ones into the dash.

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Re: Tight pass through
 

Those were my first thoughts when doing mine Firestone but my frame wasn't in line with the existing holes so I couldn't drill into the frame I would do that though if it's doable on your end. Trust me it killed me to drill new holes, but it was either have a window that wouldn't shut or drill the new holes and correct the issue and deal with it lol. The great thing is my weatherstrip covers the holes but I plan to fill them at a later time. Right now I'm having to much fun with it.



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Re: Tight pass through
 

Mines moved around a lot in the past 2-3 years. I account for small hands pulling on the windshield supports while walking through. Truth be told - I I just close it gently and then push the drivers side at the window to open it up enough.

Like all the pictures and instructions on here - may need to fix it properly this summer.

Re: Tight pass through
 

If yours closes by shifting it I would loosen all your windshield screws and see if it will fall back into place and shim it with card board before you retighten them.


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Re: Tight pass through
 

Just reading this and common I guess... My Diablo had the same problem and I even managed to accidentally brake the center glass piece trying to fix it after taking it apart. Taylor made was very nice to me and I think the replacement was less than $40 but that was probably 14 years ago. It should not be hard for someone to make those flat sections but I cringe at the thought og the cost of the curved glass.

In any case it looks like you are all on to the proper fix to reposition the outside pieces a little. I just looked carefully and decided which side was more offset than the other and moved it a fraction of an inch. Elongating the screw holes in the lower aluminum channel was easier for me and seemed a better solution than new holes in the fiberglass.

Tight pass through
 

One thing I forgot to mention when I removed my windshield. I had it removed for tint and my tint guy said he only uses high quality film and does quality work. So I'm like okay. He said the best way for him to tint the glass is to remove the glass from the frame. So guess what this guy did..... I unframed the entire windshield. I advice you guys do not try that, I'm sure you guys are a lot smarter then to do that, but I mean I got perfect tinted glass but it is a disaster putting it back together. So if you try to remove and replace a piece of glass always use soap and water to reinstall the weatherstrip and to slide it back into the frame trust me you will break it with the wrong tap of a rubber mallet. I got lucky and got it back together safely. You will never get glass back on the frame the same without soap and water. Thought I'd share that with you guys and some of you probably already knew that I just didn't want someone else making the same mistake I did.


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Re: Tight pass through
 

I finally got the time and nerve to address this issue. It was way easier than I thought to move the windshield sections about 1/2" farther apart at the front. Took about 45 minutes. Pull out the rubber hose from the channels, remove the screws, move the fronts of the windshield parts farther apart (using the center section as a guide), drill new holes, and re-install the screws and hoses. The holes in the aft sections stayed the same. Just the holes for the front section were shifted slightly. Now the center window closes easily again. Also, there are no old mounting holes visible.

Tip: Measure the overlap of the center window (example: 1/2") and use that figure to determine how far apart to moves each half (example: 1/4" on each side). I left the rearmost two screws attached on each side to make sure the halves didn't move more than I wanted (and go overboard).

Re: Tight pass through
 

Nice! This is a winter project that I really want to get done. Any pictures?

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Re: Tight pass through
 

I didn't take any photos because it went so easily and quickly. There simply wasn't anything interesting to show.