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Voltage - Battery or Alternator Issue?
Mercury MerCruiser
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09-22-2007, 04:08 AM
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#11
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MariahMan is currently offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ShabahZ250
I plan to actually overnight on mine next year quite a bit, somehow I managed to indirectly convince the GF, and she WANTS to stay onboard! 
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Howd you manage that one? Care to share your methods, haha?
Back to the battery voltage issue. The only time i've ever seen a voltage drop in the batteries is when our battery combiner joins the batteries during charging and the house battery is low.
This is how our voltage pattern goes. Go to start the boat and voltage usually around 11.5 - 12.5. Boat starts the combiner joins the batteries. If the house battery is low then voltage stays around 12.5. Once both batteries or the house battery is charged the voltage jumps up to 13.5 and stays there regardless of engine speed or electrical load (stereo, lights, etc.).
The pattern i'm seeing above with everyones alternator "problem" is that it seems to be happening on MerCruiser motors. Maybe MerCruiser undersized the alternator or their wiring is different and the alternator doesn't put out quite enough at idle? 13-14 volts is indicative of a "healthy" alternator.
Just my $.02 on the subject. Anyone with volvo motors experience the issue described above?
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-Ryan
Last edited by MariahMan; 09-22-2007 at 04:11 AM.
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09-22-2007, 10:37 AM
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#12
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ShabahZ250 is currently offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MariahMan
Howd you manage that one? Care to share your methods, haha?
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It's all about the plush cuddy interior and mood lights.
Voltage wise, get this.
I took the boat out last night after probably not using it for a week & a half, and she started up like a champ. (Using Battery 1) Got out on the river, went to raise the trim up, and the radio kicked off. Let go of the trim up button, radio came back on. So I drove around for a bit, tried again. same deal. I knew it was something electrical, for some reason my radio is the tell-tale for electrical issues. I ended up driving around all night on battery 1 with my trim all the way down.
So I get back to the harbor, and I have to get my outdrive up. I hit the trim up, same deal. So I try the "Trailer" button. click click click, like the battery is dead. I switch over to the 2nd battery, the lights dim, and it won't even start. Apparently my trim power supply is sourced to the 2nd battery only. Can someone verify this is how the setup is supposed to be? It doesn't seem right to me.
I was able to get the drive up by running the motor on bat 1, and then switching to bat2 and throttling up to about 2k to put a small charge on it. But, I'd like to figure out what's going on here. Either the charger isn't charging both batteries, or I need to tap the trim pump into the main system and not just bat 2.
Any ideas?
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Chris
2000 Mariah Shabah Z250 Limited Edition
7.4L MPI, Bravo I
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09-22-2007, 02:17 PM
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#13
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moondance100 is currently offline
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I"m sure there are people on here that likely know more than I do, but I'll yap a bit anyway.
First, the voltmeter reflects system voltage while running and that is determined by the alternator. You could have a battery that needed jumpstarted and within a few minutes, it would be reading high on the voltmeter. Don't consider a 13-14 volt reading on the dash voltmeter as a charged battery or a reason not to throw a charger/maintainer on them.
Second, I would invest in a battery charger and use it with regularity. Consider how cheap shore power is and how expensive it is to charge a boat battery by running the engine. One of two things will happen. You'll either burn a bunch of gas, or put a constant load on your alternator; or both.
Thirdly, and this is no answer just a general comment about boats, I think a great deal of our charging/lighting/ and just plain ol mysterious electrical problems can be traced back to poor grounding. Unlike a car where you have almost every metal piece of it usable as a ground, on boats that wire has to go back to the battery to close the circuit. Not only that, but it has to go back to the battery you're getting power from!
I charge my stereo batteries every evening, they're not even connected to my boat's charging system. They are 2 31 series deep cycles. I'd have to run the boat for 10 hours to charge them fully after a day's worth of amp draw. And I top off my cranking battery every few weeks just to make sure its charged. Especially if I've been out at night running slow with lights on....
And thats all I've got to say about that....(Forrest Gump voice)
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Doug
95 Z240 Talari, 502, Bravo 3
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09-23-2007, 06:01 AM
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#14
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MariahMan is currently offline
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Join Date: Jun 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ShabahZ250
It's all about the plush cuddy interior and mood lights.
Voltage wise, get this.
I took the boat out last night after probably not using it for a week & a half, and she started up like a champ. (Using Battery 1) Got out on the river, went to raise the trim up, and the radio kicked off. Let go of the trim up button, radio came back on. So I drove around for a bit, tried again. same deal. I knew it was something electrical, for some reason my radio is the tell-tale for electrical issues. I ended up driving around all night on battery 1 with my trim all the way down.
So I get back to the harbor, and I have to get my outdrive up. I hit the trim up, same deal. So I try the "Trailer" button. click click click, like the battery is dead. I switch over to the 2nd battery, the lights dim, and it won't even start. Apparently my trim power supply is sourced to the 2nd battery only. Can someone verify this is how the setup is supposed to be? It doesn't seem right to me.
I was able to get the drive up by running the motor on bat 1, and then switching to bat2 and throttling up to about 2k to put a small charge on it. But, I'd like to figure out what's going on here. Either the charger isn't charging both batteries, or I need to tap the trim pump into the main system and not just bat 2.
Any ideas?
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Yeah.. you do have that cuddy cabin going for ya. No overnighting in the bowrider
I'm guessing your batteries did not get charged which is why the stereo was turning off when you hit the trim. A few weeks ago i was using the stereo in our boat and every time the bass hit the setero would turn off then come back on again. Turns out the 5 year old battery we were using for the house circuit that originally came with the boat finally crapped out. Even after charging it wouldn't hold a charge for more than 12 hours. A new deep cycle house battery solved the problem right away.
How old are the batteries you are using in your boat Chris? Just curious if maybe its about time to replace or if they just need a good charging.
Quote:
Originally Posted by moondance100
I"m sure there are people on here that likely know more than I do, but I'll yap a bit anyway.
First, the voltmeter reflects system voltage while running and that is determined by the alternator. You could have a battery that needed jumpstarted and within a few minutes, it would be reading high on the voltmeter. Don't consider a 13-14 volt reading on the dash voltmeter as a charged battery or a reason not to throw a charger/maintainer on them.
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Definetely a good point to mention. The voltmeter is thus very misleading in determining whether your batteries have been fully charged. As far as charging our batteries besides when on the water running the alternator, is during the off season. I have a 4 bank battery maintainer that charges then maintains the batteries during the off season. Once boating season starts up again the batteries go back in the boat. Since doing the dual battery install and re vamping the electrical system, we've never once had an issue with low batteries or had a problem starting the boat no matter how long we run the stereo!
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-Ryan
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09-24-2007, 12:48 AM
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#15
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Captain Steve is currently offline
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Voltage issue
What you all are describing sounds like my 97 Z210 powered by a 5.7LX. When I first start her the alternator does not seem to charge the battery until I run the RPMs up to about 2,000 at least once. Before reving the voltage meter reads about 10-11 volts. after reving once it goes to about 13.8 and stays there as long as the motor is running, even at idle. If I shut her down, same thing. I have to rev her to about 2,000 to get the volts up again. This, it seems to me, is some kind of Mercruiser issue.
Captain Steve
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09-24-2007, 01:45 AM
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#16
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rjobe is currently offline
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My electrical systems behaves exactly as Captain Steve describes below. It has since I bought my Z202 Shabah 5 years ago... and I have the same battery as when I purchased the boat.
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Randy
1995 Z202 Shabah, 350 Mag / Alpha 1
Springfield, OH (kept @ Indian Lake, OH)
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09-24-2007, 01:36 PM
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#17
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ShabahZ250 is currently offline
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I replaced battery 2 with a same size deep cycle earlier this year, because it was dead. And now after thinking about it, maybe it wasn't, it just wasn't getting a charge. I'm going to do some serious investigating this week and trace my electrical system down.
I have a built in charger/maintainer for the boat, with a standard 110 3-prong outlet on the transom. No shorepower, and really no place to charge it either. So I'll most likely bring down my powerpack thing and let it charge for a while.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but if battery 1 is on, and the engine is running, shouldn't it be charging all the batteries, or does it only charge one battery at a time? And why would something as important as the trim pump be hooked into only one battery? That should be wired into the main battery selector to use whichever battery is "live" shouldn't it?
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Chris
2000 Mariah Shabah Z250 Limited Edition
7.4L MPI, Bravo I
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09-24-2007, 02:31 PM
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#18
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indykoch is currently offline
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Chris - I believe if you're on "battery 1" at the selector, the alternator is charging only battery 1. Battery 2 is completely isolated from the system.
Trim pump??? I'm with you on this, but I'm going to do some investigating now. I've always left it on "both" and never had anything to worry about. Your scenario is making me curious. I'll see how mine is wired sometime this week.
__________________
Ryan
'99 Z212 Shabah
350 Mag MPI
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