[toy4x4]

OK so I just got a 95 Mariah talari 210 with a 95 Mariah tandam Chariot trailer. The surge brakes are not working (no fluid in reservoir). From reading worst case I may need to replace both the surge actuator and the wheel cylinders and maybe lines. And if I go into the drums I might as well replace the shoes and hardware right?

So should I just get new brake assemblys is this easier?
and where can I get a new actuator that will drop in / fit my trailer as it is built in the frame. (Not a sit on top unit).
Also is it easy to get this actuator unit and master cylinder out or am I in the same boat as this guy?
1372-brake-master-cylinder-removal.html

[cswinings]

If you were going to have to replace all of that, you might want to go electric. Electric should give you better performance than surge.

[toy4x4]

True, I'm thinking more about Electric all the time...
But first I'd like to see if the Hydraulic parts are available. Mainly the Master Cylinder unit (assuming it's bad)
Right now I'm temped to fill her up with fluid and see what leaks--- but I don't want to waste a bunch of time bleeding brakes and working on it if I can't get suitable parts to fix it.

[99 Mariah 258]

I just pulled one of my trailer wheel hubs/drum a few weeks ago and it was a disaster. First I had to pry the rotor off and when in the air I couldn't turn the wheel. The shoes and all the hardware were completely rusted. I'm Thinking either I remove all brake hardware and finding a way to eliminate the surge brake system or pulling the boat off and giving the trailer to someone and getting it overhauled as I also have some rust issues or the death blow to the pocket of a brand new trailer

[Motoxxx43]

+1 on electric brakes.

[toy4x4]

Well turns out it was written on the top of the tongue... I have 6000 lb UFP Model A-60. I tried to remove the unit to see if it was serviceable. I disconnected the brake line and tried taping out the two big roller pins but they didn't budge. Shouldn't the roller pins just tap out or are they pressed in or something? Don't want to destroy it or not be able to easily re-install. Anyone ever dealt with these?

[woodward33]

Unfortunately, yes I have. They are a mother#*(#@r to deal with.

The problem is that once your reservoir goes dry, 99% of the time the lines and everything else rusts like crazy. You should be able to tap those pins out, but they are likely seized in there with rust. Disconnect a couple of your brake lines from the rotors and see if they look rusty inside. If so, I hate to say that you're likely in need of a full replacement.

I did this 4 years ago. In hindsight, I would echo what others have said in terms of an electric system.

Good luck.

[toy4x4]

Thanks for the advise woodward33, I was able to get them out after much hammering and filling the end (mushroomed from all the hitting). Are your surge brakes still in good shape after 4 years???

I am looking at $400 for electric system that's new electric brake assemblies, drums w bearings, trailer side wiring w 7blade connector and p2 brake controller ( would need new drums cause mine are the HD 1377-10 which aren't designed for use with the electric no good armature surface for the magnet to ride.)

vs
$ 250 for a whole new UFP A60 inner member slide and two new hydraulic free-backing brake assemblies.

So I think I'm going to stick with the surge brake and use the money saved towards new bunks or the boat (which I haven't even got started on that yet)

But I will keep the brake lines in mind... I may go flush them with some fluid just to see if they are cloged or if any rust comes out. When I pulled the backing plates the other day and disconnected the lines I had a small amount of fluid seep out so I'm hoping that they haven't rusted up on the inside.

[husker_fan]

Just buy new lines and put them on too. I just went through the same thing last summer. A coil of line is cheap, and you can borrow the flare tool from almost any auto parts store.

[toy4x4]

Update: I went with new Hydraulics. I used air and brake cleaner to flush the lines. I had to ream out the rubber line at axle because it was clogged with rust. After I assembled everything and started bleeding the calipers I found a leak inside the frame. Had to replace a 18ft section that was run inside of frame where it laid loosely and rubbed holes in it and had not been painted so it rusted up. Because of this I bought pre-painted line and then painted it again before I ran it along the outside of the frame rail. I used some rubber coated clips and metal screws to mount every 2-3 feet so it would not rub against the frame. How it should have been done to start with... Overall It turned out good. But, electric would have only cost me $100 or so more and would not have taken nearly as long and I would have had new hubs and new bearings...
I tested the trailer the other day and it done well... I could definitely tell the surge brakes were helping.

Here is what I got:
UFP34039 A60 Inner member Slide $150
UFP32681R and L Marine Grade Free Backing Brake Assemblys $100
S168233 Inner Greese Seals for Hubs $5
Cotter pins $1
3x 6ft peices of 3/8 brake line and 2 female butt connectors $30
Brake fluid $8
Total: $ 300