[cleah]

Gary,

Had 5 great boat days. Thanks for all the help. I have a new issue that I am hoping you might be able to shed some light on. The bilge pump has quit working. When I throw the switch, the switch light illimunates, indicating there is power as far as the switch. The pump makes a very faint hum, like it is trying to work, but might be jammed, blocked or just weak at the motor, or subject to poor connections.

The bilge only seems to get water from wet bodies and tubes draining after coming out of the lake. I half filled it from a hose and pulled the drain plug. A lot of age old gunge came out. I then hosed down the sides of the bilge and drained again. Tried the pump while it was submerged, but same faint hum.

When I winterize, I tape up all the orifices to keep out the ever inquisitive nest building wasps, but I am wondering if the little pests have got into the bilge pump outlet.

The bilge pump is located under the engine and out of my reach to replace it without hauling the engine out.

Is it feasible to push compressed air into the bilge pump outlet and bow debris out the other way, or am I just going to destroy the pump, and blow the pipe? Alternatively, I have a fairly powerful shop vac (Sears 6.0 HP). Perhaps if I make a tight connection onto the 0.5 inch dia bilge outlet and try to suck out light debris, such as dead wasps, etc?

As always, your thoughts, advice and suggestions are welcomed.

Thanks

Clive

[Hudson River Steve]

Unfortunately it is my experience that you are going to have to contort yourself and pull the pump off it's base. Generally speaking, if they are not run regularly the bearings have a tendency to lock up. Sometimes you can free them up with a little twist but I do not think either compressed air or a vacuum is going to do the job. Best advice is to buy a new one and locate it where you can get to it even if it is not in the most ideal location for maximum water removal.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

[GaryDoug]

Steve is right and that is exactly what I had to do with mine. I was able to reach under the engine to get the mounting screws out using a stubby screwdriver. But my old pump was already loose/broken from it's base so I did not have to break it loose. I relocated the new pump to just below the crankshaft pulley. That is convenient but it could be damaged by a broken drive belt incident. The old pump was still working but I did not want it loose. Eventually that would have broken the wires.

I see no issue with using the compressed air to try to purge it in reverse. There is really nothing to lose by doing it. These pumps are centrifugal vane ones and there would not be a lot of back pressure anyway unless you have a check valve in the pump or outlet hose. That's unlikely for a modestly priced pump. Still, I would not use more than about 10 PSIi.

By the way, see my topic about my failed 1-month old Rule float switch in this forum. I cannot recommend them but have no real problems with their pumps (yet).

[cleah]

Thanks guys,

I'll give the air a short try, but looks like I need a new pump. Any recommendations?

Clive

[GaryDoug]

I really don't have a recommendation for you except to not buy the Rule float switch. You may want to consider dual pumps of maybe 700 GPH, one for constant power through the float switch and the other for power from the control switch on the dash. Those connection are probably available at the terminal block on the right side of the lower engine compartment valley (as seen from the back). I installed an 1100 GPH Rule pump but may add another one for manual operation only. The 1200 GPH Atwood one that was in my boat was a shorty that fit easily under the engine but its replacements are too tall.

[cleah]

Thanks Gary. Dual pumps sounds like a very good and professional way to go. I'll start looking at how to remove the old one.

Regards

Clive

[cleah]

Gary,

I am thinking of fitting two pumps, one with permanent supply and float switch, the other powered from the dash, as you described. I only have the one outlet in the side of the boat. Would you go for joining the two pump outlet pipes with a "Y" fitting just before the boat side outlet, or drill and fit a second outlet in the side of the boat?

Clive

[GaryDoug]

I would probably just use a Y fitting but you may have to add two check valves to make sure one pump doesn't just send the water back into the bilge through the other pump. I am not sure if my pump has a check valve built-in.