I think I'd spend the extra $$ and buy some pressure treated plywood. You can buy "marine carpet" at many places, I think even Home Depot.

I will check HD. Sould I remove the diamond plate over the wheel well while I am at it and add some other non slip surface that won't damage the underside of the boat?

For the trailer bunks make sure you use pressure treated lumber and galvanized bolts. (Replace whatever bolts and bunks are on there now or at least look at them with a very jaundiced eye.)

As to the wheel wells I would see if you can pick up pressure treated siding or exterior grade plywood at Lowes or Home Depot. One sheet should do you fine.

I would then cover it with complementary or matching marine grade carpet - I googled and got quite a few entries.

Let us know how you progress on this.

Finally got my noisy trailer fixed today, turns out the grinding sound was indeed the brakes. The pad had worn down and it was rubbing metal to metal, brakes had probably never been replaced. Unfortunately the drum on the starboard side was shot, needed to be replaced. My mechanic got a good deal on 2 completely new drums assemblies with new bearings, $120 for the pair. After labor and a $25 trip charge and antoher $30 in parts the whole shabang was $500. He probably over charged me a bit on the labor(4 hours) but he did come to my house to do the repair.

Chariot Trailers were made of top quality products and are definately a top of the line unit. The fender pads should definately be recovered and replaced as they offer protection to the hull from road bebris the tires may kick up. The carpet should be a high quality carpet, at least 28 oz. carpet. The bunks should be carpeted with the same (good quality) carpet.

How do you load and unload your boat, how far down do you back the trailer to load and unload? Do you spay anything on your carpet to help the boat slide on and off easier? All of these things add to extended carpet life of the trailer and make it much easier on the hull.