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Temp prop
The kids and I took our 94 Talari z240 (350 Magnum and Alpha 1) out for the first time this spring here in Vermont and we 'found' the large tub of concrete that anchors the swim platform (which we planned to put in tomorrow). After a nice, forgiving thud, I throttled back to shore and did the walk of shame to my wife to let her know we needed to get a new prop. I borrowed what the marina had this afternoon which was a Merc 3 blade 25P. Talk about slow ramping up. However, better than half chewed blades. After reading the posts in the prop talk forum, my goal is to get a 19 or 20 since we really only tube, ski and wake board. No top end needed, just need to get out of the hole. The old prop was rebuilt and I do not know what the specs were. My question is when I ran the rpm's up to 4K, it seemed to max out and then the drive felt like it spun free for a second and then it lost momentium. The motor did not diie or over rev. Never went over 4K. Is this the rev limiter or drive slip? Thoughts?
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This started after you "found the obstacle" right?
Coupler or prop hub bad maybe? Does it make noise or have a vibration? |
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Yes, after the run in. Once I replaced the bad prop there were no vibrations or bad mechanical sounds heard. It also shifts fine. I think I can get the lower pitched prop installed tomorrow evening and give it another test.
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Let us know :)
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Rain and Snow FINALLY left Vermont to test the prop? issue tonight. Took it out at WOT and it slowly crept to 4K rpm while only achieving around 20 mph. Then it suddenly revved up over 5500 with no acceleration. I quickly backed off the throttle realizing things were not good. What part of the transmission would cause this? i don think it is a lower end problem. Engine seems fine. Thoughts to tell the mechanic this weekend?
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Prop hub or coupler would be my bet.
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Engine bay is usually full of nasty smelling rubber smoke if it's the coupler, my bet would be spun prop hub as ColoradoDiablo said
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If it is the hub, would it still allow the prop to work at around 10-15 mph? Seems like if it spun the hub, it would be totally useless. I took it to the shop tonight to get it looked at next week. Lets hope for the best.
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It wont necessarily be totally useless and many times they will still 'work' at lower speeds but when you put the hammer down then the load becomes too much and they start to spin on the hub. I think both Larry & Andy have got it right and its most likely a spun hub.
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But these just pop out and you should carry a spare hub on board. If it's the rubber hub then yes it will still have some low speed grip but it wont last long... sort of get you back too the dock if you nurse it type of thing. From all you've described I would say it was prop hub, but have you tried a different prop on it yet? |
Re: Temp prop
Rick,
I performed a similiar move yesterday on my "High Five" prop that I just had redone. Toasted the whole thing on a free floating submerged log in a 4000 acre lake. I since have spoken to the helpful Mikey T and done some research and found a match on Craigslist for a $45 new. Mechanically I think I'm fine but still waiting to investigate it more however. I am going to purchase a second flo torque hub as suggested. Also I plan to carry the second pro as a back up once mine is fixed again. I did take off about an inch of the lower fin unit that extends below the prop. I'm still try to determine if it is going to be and issue? In the mean time I wish you luck and will watch to see how you come out. Derek B. |
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Kudo's to all of those who suggested the spun hub was my issue. After a few hundred dollars for a prop and a lake test, we are back in action in Vermont. I went with the 21P prop as suggested in many forums for my set up. Next up, replace the sun deck hydraulic lifts!
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Again - I know nothing about the replacement pieces so I cannot vouch for them. However here is the Black Fin model: Blackfin Skeg - Regarding The Outdoors |
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If you are looking for a skeg guard that fits well and is durable I'd recommend a stainless steel one. I have a panther on my Bravo 1. The blackfin has some negative reviews I'd suggest you look into before to buying. Apparently it likes to fall off!
I have not noticed any adverse effects of having the guard on the out drive. Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using Tapatalk 2 |
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Thanks everyone for the helpful insight!
I didn't even know what the "skeg" was actually called, let alone a guard was available. I'll be picking one up next week. I like the stainless-seems to make more sense. I dropped the damaged prop off today and I'm looking at $160 which isn't bad considering the damage versus investment. As I mentioned I purchased a like new 13 3/4" 21 pitch 3 blade prop on Craigslist for my 20' Talari w/ Merc 5.7' 4400-4800 RPM, 1.62 gear ratio as a back up while the other is being repaired. I'll let you know how that goes. Thanks again. Derek |
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160$ to repair the aluminum prop? I am pretty sure they are like 180$ brand new... Just looking out for you! What out drive?
Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using Tapatalk 2 |
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I read through the post an saw you are an Alpha 1. Didn't mean to ask a question you all ready answered!
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Why not just get the skeg welded back up then repaint it to look like new? Adding a skeg guard will make it look better & you can do it yourself but if you hit something again that skeg guard will likely get ripped off along with another chunk of your skeg. Seems to me that installing one of those SS Skeg guards is like advertising that you are a rock beater. ;)
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The two holes that hold on a skeg guard will definitely cause a larger fracture if you hit something!
Aluminium fin is around 30$ the labor is $$? Zinc chromate and phantom black paint maybe 20$. The cost is not much higher to do it like new, I agree. It is hard to find someone that can weld aluminium and actually do a nice job. Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using Tapatalk 2 |
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The prop being repaired is a "High Five" stainless steel. Thanks. I wondered about having the skeg repaired, but figured that would be rather costly? Great point about just ripping more of the skeg off with future incidents.
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Thanks for the sympathy! I have been thinking about the skeg guard advice I have received. I like the stainless steel skeg. I'm not fond of the idea of drilling holes when mounting it. I agree that if I hit anything else it's likely to just finish the job of ripping off the rest of my skeg. I am thinking of getting the stainless skeg and then taking JB Weld and permanently fixing the skeg to the boat? I intend to put enough JB Weld into the stainless skeg guard to essentially rebuild what's already been torn off-adding support by filling the skeg guard. I am thinking the JB Weld will hold pretty well.
Any thoughts? |
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