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Engine problems
Engine ran fine then I replaced the starter because it quit working. Tried to start and it started then shut off. Attempted to start several more times, same results. Next I started again then immediately gave it some throttle and it stayed running, as soon as I let off the throttle it died again. I adjusted the idle up a little and it worked. Took boat out this weekend ran into some choppy water hit a pretty good swell and engine quit. Had a friend of mine tow me to the nearest shore and tried to get it running again. Now the only way to get it started is to have the throttle almost wide open then back it down, but at about 1500 rpm's the engine quits. Needless to say had to be towed back to the dock. Anyone have any ideas?:confused:
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Re: Engine problems
Clogged fuel filter?
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Re: Engine problems
Fwiw, I was thinking it sounds carb related too. Sounds like the bowls are running out of fuel.
But... did a bunch of water get in the boat at some point causing the starter to go out and maybe now something else electrical? |
Re: Engine problems
I don't think his carb has bowls Dredd (I may be completely wrong) but I think it is a TBI setup. TruckinGA, If you can't figure it out, i'm only a couple of hours from you, maybe between the 2 of us we can get her going.
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Motor is not TBI, it has a carb. No water has gotten in the boat to mess the starter up. I had the starter rebuilt and the 3 little gears inside that the brush gear turns were stripped out.
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This is just a thought but if it's a mech fuel pump it could be going out I had that issue with 350s in cars before. If you can get someone to trun it over for you check if fuel is being misted into the carb, should only be the front 2 bowls on a quadrajet carb if not clean carb change filter. Retry if same try changing out the pump. All this is if it is a mech pump on the front side of the block. I have some tips for changing the pump if that appears to be the issue, keep us posted.
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It is a mech fuel pump and i am going to be changing the fuel/ water filter to see if thats it.
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Just a thought but since the problem started after you replaced the starter did you double check the wiring around the starter and starter solenoid? If the wire that goes from the starter solenoid to the Coil "+" terminal was miswired or broken and shorting somewhere... it could be dragging down your coil voltage...and then it wouldn't run to well.
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@ Hudson River Steve- I will look at that too. The starter was rebuilt, do you think that possibly it was put back together wrong and that is the problem? It ran fine before the starter problem.
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I doubt that there is anything wrong with the starter itself. It is isloated from the rest of the electrical system by the starter solenoid. I was just suggesting to double check the wiring around the starter solenoid and the starter slave solenoid as they were probably disturbed durring the starter replacement and there are connections to the ignition system. If there are no broken wires, nothing is miswired and all your voltages check out then move on to the fuel system.
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Re: Engine problems
I'd take the starter to NAPA , Autozone or whoever and have it tested to start with. Are you sure that you have wires in the correct spot? Make sure all connections are clean.
If it ran fine before you had the starter rebuilt then chances are it is something that was done during that repair. How long did it sit between when it ran fine and getting the starter rebuilt? This is a interesting problem please make sure to keep us advised. Larry |
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@ ColoradoDiablo: it only sat one week prior to having the starter problem. Next weekend I am going to check all the wires and connections on the starter, as well as following the wires back to where they go to make sure they are good. I will keep everyone updated on the status of my poor sick Mariah:(
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3 Attachment(s)
The day my engine quit working I took these pics while we were waiting on SeaTow. Hope you enjoy and get a laugh on my behalf...
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Well attempted to start boat this morning and what do you know it started as if nothing was wrong. Let it idle a little bit then just as the risers were starting to get warm it started to sputter then died. I attempted to restart, it started then died again. Started one more time then quickly started messing with the choke valve (closing it a little) and it stayed running. Once I let go of the choke valve it sputtered and died. So I know I have a choke problem but don't know how ot fix it. Anyone have any ideas?
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Re: Engine problems
When it's cold is the choke closed?
It's a bimetallic spring, easily replaced. |
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The choke isn't fully closed. I can push down on it about 1/4 of an inch. The choke lever looks like it's connected to something you would find in a house thermastat. It looks like there is a bolt holding it on to the intake, but not really sure as it looks rusted over. Would I just remove that bolt then put a new on in?
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Hey truckin ,
If you got the weber 4bbl looks like the choke assembly including the spring is no longer available. I can't remember the part # but I did a electric choke conversion on mine cause I couldn't get the choke assembly. Call Edelbrock with your carb # and they will hook you up with a conversion kit. Larry |
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That spring is the thermostat that activates/deactivates the choke. I suggest penetrating oil for a while before doing it. |
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Where could I find a replacement spring?
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Once again , discontinued from Mercruiser.
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I'd prefer that to my heat riser activated choke but I got the old school from a buddy who ran a marine business. He had one in his tool box. Does merc show the proper placement for the feed wire? If not where do you get 12v from the harness so it gets fed from a 12v on run spot? Does it simply run on switched power? |
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Voodoo , here is a basic install from Edelbrock. Some will differ with other carbs.
I love mine , thou I've only used it a couple times. :) http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive_.../1000/1478.pdf Larry |
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Well called a friend of mine that is good with carbs and he suggested I redo the air mixture and idle settings. I did this and guess what? "IT'S ALIVE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!"
If you didn't get that my Mariah is now longer deathly ill, just a little sick now as I don't have a timing light with a digital tac so I was only able to do it by ear. But the fact that she stays running now is a major accomplishment. Tomorrow I am going out and getting a timing light with a digital tac(because I need one anyways) and getting the adjustments fine tuned. Thank you every one on here that gave suggestions (if they worked or not). :yes_grin: :wink_thumbup: |
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Glad to see that..... It's Alive!
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Sorry I didn't reply to this earlier. I'm a new member as of two days ago. I had the exact same issue and it was the carb. Had a mechanic break the seal and cleaned the carb out. The #1 issue that caused it from running beautifully when cold to dying when it warmed up was crummy gas. Find a station that sells 100% pure gas. Even super-93 octane is crap these days. You'll notice that the 100% pure gas will actually last longer than todays 10% ethanol gas. I use it in my car and get 11% better gas mileage with the 100% pure gas. It's a little expensive $4.11 in South Carolina, but well worth it.
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Took the boat out today and had a blast. The only issue I had was shifting from neutral to forward gear, the engine wanted to die. I gave it a little more gas and it stayed running. The idle in gear is between 675 and 700 rpm. All in all the boat performs flawlessly underway. I just have a few more minor things to fix and she will be done. Thanks again for everyone's input on how to possible fix.
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