Replacement carpet?
 

Has anyone replaced the carpets in the boat. I would like to replace mine, but having a difficult time finding a local supplier. there are several on-line suppliers, but I would really like to see the product first. Anyone have any experience with this? I'm curious where the originals were made.
steve

That job is on my project list for next year too. We have a number of marine carpet suppliers up here that can provide what i need but i haffa admit i haven't looked too closely into what is out there. I have no idea where Mariah sourced their original carpet but i suspect whatever is available now is likely superior to what was available back in the '90's. Maybe our admin guys know a little more about it?

Mikeyt,
My carpets are not that bad, but, the black bottom facing has deteriorated. The non-skid surface on the floor has abraded the backing in the high traffic areas. It is time to look for replacements. The on-line suppliers are not inexpensive. You don't mind paying a premium for a high quality carpet. I have taken to carry the small carpet from the galley, stopping at carpet dealers. No takers, yet. Even the local canvas shops havent come thru with any good suggestion.
When I find a good source I will let all know.

steve

I believe, like everything else with Mariah, it was made in-house. I agree with mikeyt that the carpet made nowadays is probably far more superior. I am planning on adding carpet to mine this year if the budget allows. I had my canvas guy give me some more information. He left me a sample, which I'll grab next time I'm at the boat so I can post the info. It's a thicker Berber style, and it's the same carpet they use in Fountain boats, which is rated to stay down *without* snaps up to 70mph. It's thicker, and the backing seems much more sturdy than everything else I've seen. I'll post the info soon!

SLP,

I just re-deck'ed my 96' Shabah last summer after having the stringers reglassed and doubling up the bulkheads before and aft the fuel compartment. I retired friend did the glass work and I completed the deck.

I spent a lot of time researching the area of carpet (probably too much time). I live in a huge boating community (Tampa Bay) and just assumed that picking up marine carpet would be easy. Not so much. After much web research and finding out that even the biggie-sized West Marine did not stock anything, I ordered the carpet from (of all places) Lowes. In the back where the stock indoor-outdoor carpet is sold from the huge rolls they had a pack of 4"x 6" Marine Carpet samples that were just hanging from a small chain.

I could touch and feel the carpet and compare the color to my existing side carpet areas where I was not quite ready to replace. It was an excellent quality, nice pile, and a super durable rubber backing. There was a minimum order (almost twice what I needed for the floor) however the cost was the best by linear foot and now I have enough to go back and do the sides and engine compartment when I want. It took about a week through their special order desk as the carpet came from an non-Lowes supplier in Georgia.

The carpet layed in nicely when the job was done. When you do this make sure you have some acetone or other solvent handy to quickly deal with the inevitable glue slop.

Hope this help.

Thanks,

Bill

WetWilly,

Sure. It was rated as UV resistant and was mold/mildew resistant as well. I used a "Roberts 6700 Premium Indoor/Outdoor Carpet Adhesive" and bought the trowel recommended by the adhesive. Now to be sure, I was adhering this to the raw deck of my boat - meaning this is the marine plywood of the deck surface with a layer of glass and resin - and the adhesive worked very well with that and the underneath side of the carpet. The bow area of my Shabah has a factory dimpled (anti-slip) formed deck that originally had a snap-down carpet. I do not know what the recommended adhesive for that surface would be. I would like to replace that snap-down piece as well (using snaps, not adhesive), however my original is logo monogrammed and I have not figured out how to replicate that.



Thanks,

Bill DeWeese

replacement carpet
 

I have recently been in contact with "Custom Marine Carpet", they are online. They are sending me some swatches of available carpets samples. The boat carpets are currently 'relaxing' indoors so a template can be made and shipped to CMC. They have several weights of material in a cut pile or a berber. All are bound with a sunbrella material. Will update soon.
steve

I have the swivel captain's chairs. Just wondering, if they can be removed to replace the carpeting without the bolts falling into the bilge?

Hi Paul F,

As you can see from this picture of the mounting system that ShabahZ250 put up on another thread, it looks like the pedestal bolts go into the plate and there appears to be no nuts used so I would assume the plate is tapped with threads for the bolts. Also, the plate appears to be mounted under the floor by its own screws so neither plate or nuts should fall into the bilge.

http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h2...eatbracket.jpg

Here is what I suggested to another member sometime ago when we were not sure it the plate would fall......

"As for finding out is they are truly attached to the bottom of the deck, remove all but one bolt, swing the pedestal base enough to expost a bolt hole opposite of the remaining bolt, reinsert another bolt and tighten only half way. Now loosen the remaining tight bolt halfway as well and see if the plate tries to drop. If it does, you've got two bolts holding it from dropping completely into the bilge."


Good luck,
WetWilly

Paul,

Bear with me as I am trying my first picture attached to the post (thanks for the assist ShabahZ250!)

This is the not-so-glossy-brochure view of the mounting from my re-deck project last Spring. As I circled on the left and right seat, the metal plate is sandwiched to layers of plywood and laminate and the whole thing rests on the top of the stringers. As indicated the all the voids are filled with floatation foam. So nothing is going to fall.

Mine is 1996 and I am not sure if it was age or salt water boating, however I lost a few bolts when they came out as it took a lot of force to unscrew them. Just make sure that you use the same length screw for depth of penetration. ;o)

We just took measurements from two screw holes from each mount from a fixed location and then after the carpet was in place put each pedestal back in place.

Since there was a post worrying about puncturing a fuel tank. I thought I would give a visual of the compartment and the "plastic" tank. The tank in my configuration is 35 gallons.

The only sad thing is that I never took any pics of the finished project. It looks nice though. I will get some pics in the gallery as soon as I can get some time with the boat.

By the way, I mentioned getting good marine carpet from Lowes... I was there last night and I re-found the swatches. The company that this comes from is Lancer Enterprises in Dalton Georgia (http://www.lancerent.com/). I remembered that it had a Knight or horse on the logo.


Thanks,

Bill DeWeese

Thanks, Wet Willy!

Your response may allow me to do something that I had been thinking about the last few years.

I've been considering trying to find different pedestals that would allow my front seats to sit 3 to 6 inches higher. Looks like if I can find one that matches the bolt pattern in the floor, I may be able to do it.

Any suggestions on finding them?

Paul

WetWilly,

Here is a view toward the rear bilge. The middle spar is a channel for bilge to run aft and pass through the mouse holes in the center of the bulkheads at the rear of the ski locker and the rear of the fuel compartment. Actually unlike the ski locker that is all laminate build-ups, the fuel tank is cored. The two flanking "pillows" or "panels" that run along the sides of the fuel compartment , left and right of the center channel. So the fuel tank rests on those and that leaves about a 2" round channel from the ski locker back to the rear bilge. This coring was a plywood sandwich. The coring could have accomplished a dual purpose of raising the fuel tank up to allow the drainage channel and to protect the fuel tank from extreme impacts.

Notice that my two bulkheads *were* spliced. :mad: I was experiencing some delamination and some stress fractures along the stringers and these splices were coming unglued. Now I have double bulkheads with new bulkheads laminated to the existing ones and the stringers are all re-laminated. The ski locker and fuel compartment are all gel and web like the rear bilge so I don't have any yucky carpet in the ski area.

Note to self: Next time you buy a boat, even a sub-$10,000 deal, hire a surveyor. I never removed the carpet in the ski locker to examine the stringers. Actually, I could not figure why the guy was selling a $12,000 boat for $7,000. At the end of the day I have less than $10,000 into it, the hull/stringers/deck are all rebuilt and it runs wonderfully, so it is not all bad.


Thanks,

Bill DeWeese

Hi Paul,

I would give West Marine or Boaters World a call, they have quite a selection of seat pedestals to choose from.

Here is the link to West Marine:
http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs...&storeId=10001

Here is the link to boaters World:
http://www.boatersworld.com/seating-...ciseating-boat

Hopefully, they will have something to fit your needs!

I'll try to see if my pedestals have any manufacture sticker on them, never hurts to go OEM...

Good hunting,
WetWilly

Hull Repairs
 

WetWilly,

I found the problem just as we kicked off a huge kitchen remodel. So I went to a local shop that was high-end and did primarily insurance damage work. When I got his estimate of $5,000, I freaked out and then I parked the boat for 9 months as my kitchen project did not leave any budget for the boat.

In the 9 months though, I geared up to do it myself. I read tons of books and figured out what needed to be done. The following spring a boating fiend turned me onto a retired fellow that worked doing hand lay-up for Monterrey boats. So we did the work together. I did the deck demo to get the best estimate of the work, he did the lay-up and then I put the boat back together and recarpeted it.

So, at the end of the day "we" did the work and I spent like $1,500.00 on it all.
I have some more home projects underway now and work has kept me off the water. I will unwrap my boat soon though and get some pictures on my gallery.

Thanks,

Bill DeWeese

Gas tank replacement help needed!!
 

The neck to our '94 Talari gas tank was cracked and now we're going to put the new tank in. I have removed the access panel near the engine and cut back the carpet where the plywood floor is. I have removed two screws that are near the engine that attached the lower plywood to the stringers. There are two floors, one on the stringers and another above that for which I can find no screws. It appears to be glued to the lower flooring and then caulked around the outside edges. I can't figure out where to go from here. I'd like to do this myself, but may have to resort to the local shop. HHHeeelllppp!

Re: Replacement carpet?
 

I can't fugure this out. I have a 1996 Z252 shabah. No carpet and a full removeable fiberglass floor. It has electric captain chairs that need to be removed but then you just unscrew the floor. the pictures I'm seeing don't look anything like mine. Let me know what's up. Thanks Reed PS By fiberglass I mean gel coat finish with a diamond type texture.

Re: Replacement carpet?
 

I have a 1993 20' Mariah, Bowrider and am installing a new pedestal seat. The former owner put in the back to back seats and left the old hole in the carpet where a pedestal must have been. I was thinking to install the new pedistal on top of my new carpet with #14 or #16 stainless screws (if I can find them) into the plywood. Good idea?
Zariah