The only thing wrong with the boat is the motor. All options were working when the boat was stored and I assume they still work now. It has every option you could imagine, including the GPS that I added and the upgraded stereo/speakers. I found the issue when I pulled my exhaust to replace them, I had noticed a rust spot on the side of the motor, this prompted me to remove the exhaust and this brought on the removal of the heads to find one bank of cylinders rusted and most likely seized.
I really love the boat but I also don't see myself fixing it anytime soon.
For issues that bug me/need fixing:
Needs at minimum a rebuild/head job but a longblock or even drop in is way easy to find. I have looked at over 10 motors in the last year but had to put every penny into my house.
There is one scratch on the hull that should be marinetex'd.
There are some small dings and dents, all stickers are in tact minus the very small hull pinstripe that I removed because 25% of it was missing.
There is a small hole near the rear ladder from where I hit the corner with a rowboat heading out one day. NO where near water and could easily be marinetex'd.
The rear sundeck needs a new list support system, after 10 years the plywood is flexing and is a bear to lift (since the 252s only have one electric lift on the left side the sundeck flexes as it raises, I put in 2x 125lb gas lifts and that worked perfect. It has a small rip near where the rear hinge is, no biggy, just always bugged me.
The rear bench seat also has a small tear in it, no biggy just bugged me. If you know the layout of these boats this is the way into the boat as you need a 32"+ inseam to get over the gunwhales
All of the fake wood grain paneling is faded, I had contacted a place in FL that does hot rod dash boards and was quoted $800 to redo every piece in the boat, I never got around to it
All guages/switches/options work. I have the circuit breakers disconnected because I bought all new connectors to reconnect all of the breakers. If you have seen how this was done at the factory you would scream, all breakers have piggy backs on them to daisy chain the +12V feeds together. I had a lose connection on the main breaker that goes to the engine and it would quit when I hit a wave

The better way to do it is with a terminal strip and I had bought all the connectors and heat shrink to do it over correctly.
Has the captains call, bravo 3 with 24p props is in mint condition.