Power steering rack attachment
 

I have a 1993 2350Z with Merc 454 and Bravo 1. Whilst tubing a couple of days ago, the steering became heavy and inspection revealed a thin coating of condensed power steering fluid mist over the engine and engine bay. Closer inspection revealed pooled power steering fluid in the carpet and over all equipment at the rear starboard corner, close to the batteries and junctions of the power steering hoses to the rack. On searching for the leak (which I have not yet found), turning the steering wheel with the engine off, to look for ousing fluid, I noted that the entire rack mechism rocks from side to side when the steering is turned from side to side, i.e. it appears loose.

Does anyone have diagrams or description of where the attachments are that fasten the steering rack to the ending/drive. Access is very difficult and almost certainly requires blind use of spanners etc, knowing where the fasteners are.

Any help welcomed.

Clive

Re: Power steering rack attachment
 

Does anyone have photos/pictures/diagrams of the power steering system?

Re: Power steering rack attachment
 

I'm not sure what you are asking. Are you asking about how the steering cable attaches to the power steering unit? I can tell you for a Bravo 3 there is a locking nut on the cable that screws to the power steering unit. The far end of the steering cable housing usually has a flat place for a open end wrench so that you can tighten or loosen the nut without the cable housing turning. The flat place is not easy to reach on top of the assembly in the center of the boat. The cable's end attaches with a straight pin and cotter pin.
If you need something else, you can download the complete Bravo 1-3 service Manual here:
http://www.ta-group.at/dokus/service...avo_drives.pdf

Re: Power steering rack attachment
 

Thank you. A huge help. I really appreciate it. I think I need to replace the steering cable as the steering requires two hands to move and I am not loosing any power steering fluid. The power steering drive belt appears normal and doesn't appear to slip. Any advice on changing the steering cable, such as how to access it, etc. would be most welcome.

Re: Power steering rack attachment
 

I would just disconnect the cable end from the power steering link and check the cable for movement. You find the clevice pin at the end of the cable and remove the cotter pin. Then pull out the clevice pin. That disengages it from the outdrive so there is no load on it. I suggest using a new cotter pin when reattaching the cable.

Re: Power steering rack attachment
 

Gary,

Thanks again. I'll do that this evening.

Clive

Re: Power steering rack attachment
 

Gary. Got the new cable and fitted it. Huge difference; thank you. Went from two-handed steering to one finger steering. Really appreciate your help. Thanks Clive

Re: Power steering rack attachment
 

Gary,

Have been on the Lake four times with the new steering cable and works great. Had loads of fun tubing, knee-boarding, etc. Thanks for the help. Another question if I may. I have a lot of play (histeresis) in the steering. Most of it seems to originate at the clevice pins; the one at the and of the steering cable, and one in another of the steering arms. Both are a relatively slack fit in their respective holes and tend to rock sideways a little before taking up the intended movement. Is there a cure available for this, such as bushes, over-sized clevice pins, etc.?

Re: Power steering rack attachment
 

I am not aware of any such parts that could help. I kinda doubt that the play is anywhere but in the I/O steering lever (#26) and steering shaft (#14) and/or gimbal ring (#1), at least from what the mechanics tell me. And that is a very expensive repair in labor. They say most owners just put up with the play. The attached diagram is for a Bravo unit, but I think others are similar. If you find another cure, I would be interested in it.

Re: Power steering rack attachment
 

Thanks Gary,

I'll take a closer look. However, I had my daughter turn the steering while I had me head in the back next to the steering cable attachment and I thought I saw a lot of rocking of the clevice pins. I'll test it again to check.

Thanks again

Clive

Re: Power steering rack attachment
 

Gary,

Had 5 great boat days. Thanks for all the help. I have a new issue that I am hoping you might be able to shed some light on. The bilge pump has quit working. When I throw the switch, the switch light illimunates, indicating there is power as far as the switch. The pump makes a very faint hum, like it is trying to work, but might be jammed, blocked or just weak at the motor, or subject to poor connections.

The bilge only seems to get water from wet bodies and tubes draining after coming out of the lake. I half filled it from a hose and pulled the drain plug. A lot of age old gunge came out. I then hosed down the sides of the bilge and drained again. Tried the pump while it was submerged, but same faint hum.

When I winterize, I tape up all the orifices to keep out the ever inquisitive nest building wasps, but I am wondering if the little pests have got into the bilge pump outlet.

The bilge pump is located under the engine and out of my reach to replace it without hauling the engine out.

Is it feasible to push compressed air into the bilge pump outlet and bow debris out the other way, or am I just going to destroy the pump, and blow the pipe? Alternatively, I have a fairly powerful shop vac (Sears 6.0 HP). Perhaps if I make a tight connection onto the 0.5 inch dia bilge outlet and try to suck out light debris, such as dead wasps, etc?

As always, your thoughts, advice and suggestions are welcomed.

Thanks

Clive

Re: Power steering rack attachment
 

Unfortunately it is my experience that you are going to have to contort yourself and pull the pump off it's base. Generally speaking, if they are not run regularly the bearings have a tendency to lock up. Sometimes you can free them up with a little twist but I do not think either compressed air or a vacuum is going to do the job. Best advice is to buy a new one and locate it where you can get to it even if it is not in the most ideal location for maximum water removal.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

Re: Power steering rack attachment
 

Steve is right and that is exactly what I had to do with mine. I was able to reach under the engine to get the mounting screws out using a stubby screwdriver. But my old pump was already loose/broken from it's base so I did not have to break it loose. I relocated the new pump to just below the crankshaft pulley. That is convenient but it could be damaged by a broken drive belt incident. The old pump was still working but I did not want it loose. Eventually that would have broken the wires.

I see no issue with using the compressed air to try to purge it in reverse. There is really nothing to lose by doing it. These pumps are centrifugal vane ones and there would not be a lot of back pressure anyway unless you have a check valve in the pump or outlet hose. That's unlikely for a modestly priced pump. Still, I would not use more than about 10 PSIi.

By the way, see my topic about my failed 1-month old Rule float switch in this forum. I cannot recommend them but have no real problems with their pumps (yet).

Re: Power steering rack attachment
 

Thanks guys,

I'll give the air a short try, but looks like I need a new pump. Any recommendations?

Clive

Re: Power steering rack attachment
 

I really don't have a recommendation for you except to not buy the Rule float switch. You may want to consider dual pumps of maybe 700 GPH, one for constant power through the float switch and the other for power from the control switch on the dash. Those connection are probably available at the terminal block on the right side of the lower engine compartment valley (as seen from the back). I installed an 1100 GPH Rule pump but may add another one for manual operation only. The 1200 GPH Atwood one that was in my boat was a shorty that fit easily under the engine but its replacements are too tall.

Re: Power steering rack attachment
 

Thanks Gary. Dual pumps sounds like a very good and professional way to go. I'll start looking at how to remove the old one.

Regards

Clive

Re: Power steering rack attachment
 

Gary,

I am thinking of fitting two pumps, one with permanent supply and float switch, the other powered from the dash, as you described. I only have the one outlet in the side of the boat. Would you go for joining the two pump outlet pipes with a "Y" fitting just before the boat side outlet, or drill and fit a second outlet in the side of the boat?

Clive

Re: Power steering rack attachment
 

I would probably just use a Y fitting but you may have to add two check valves to make sure one pump doesn't just send the water back into the bilge through the other pump. I am not sure if my pump has a check valve built-in.