Time for a Reman Carb!!!
 

So much for that plan. Went out for the day and I have gas in the oil again. I think I am going to go with a reman carb. Any suggestions? Some people around here tell me to check into aftermarket carbs such as Edelbrock? I need something in fairly short order so any help or suggestions would be appreciated.

Ordered a reman today from Guaranteed Carburetors. They are very busy right now and have to build a carb for my boat then ship so looks like I'll be down for about a week and a half.

Hope this helps
 

I realize this is an old post; however, it’s my hope this will help others as well. When I purchased my 1995 Mariah Talari, 3.0LX last year, I experienced a similar problem. The person whom I purchased the boat from could not start the engine unless it had not been started in a very long time.

After taking a compression check (excellent results…all 4 cylinders, 160 +/-2 PSI) I purchasing the boat AS IS, I found fuel leaking from the spray bar several minutes after trying to start the engine. Ah! I thought, the problem must be the float setting. The engine ran great after setting the float. I shut the engine down it would not restart…yup, fuel still dripping from the spray bar.

This time I thought: it must be the needle valve and seat. I purchased a carburetor rebuild kit and completed the rebuild taking care to set the float correctly. To my utter surprise, the problem was still there. How can this be?

I connected a pressure gauge to the fuel system and measured between 7-9 PSIG. The manual stated about 6 PSIG maximum (I don’t remember the exact values). This engine had a vacuum type fuel pump; to increase the fuel pressure the internal spring rate had to increase. To this day I don’t know how, but that is what I had. To remedy the problem I installed a Holley fuel regulator and set it to 5-1/4 PSIG. This corrected the issue…running great ever since. I’d love to hear how the vacuum pump can deliver too much pressure. To my knowledge, there is no relief valve in the pump.

Wow. Never thought that could happen. I would have thought some of the techy guys would have chimed in on this post? My fuel pump is electric but I would still like to know what my fuel pressure is suppose to be and if is is possible that is is also my problem? I have ordered a new carb as well but it is not here yet so I still don't know if my problem is in the carb or ??

Hi Boarder1010:

I purchased an after-market manual for my engine and outdrive; unfortunately, the book is at my Florida home and I'm in Connecticut.

I seem to remember, the old flat-head Fords had a similar problem: if the fuel pressure exceeded about 4 PSI the needle valve, seat and float assembly could not shut the fuel off completely. Back then, about 150 yrs ago ;-), in the late fifties to mid sixties we used to disconnect the vacuum pump and replace it with an electric pump and adjust the pressure to prevent flooding.

I'm trying to remember the name of the publisher...I'm told, memory is the second thing to go; I forgot what the first was. ;-) I believe the name is about five letters long and begins with an S. The name is not a common name.

What engine do you have? Is the electric fuel pump original to your boat? I assume you can adjust fuel pressure. A word of caution: Ensure your fuel pressure is high enough; if too low, your engine may run lean. A lean engine will run hot and can cause severe damage to pistons, cylinders, valves and heads. Maybe somebody else can help here: does anybody know what Boarder1010's fuel pressure should be?

Another thought: contact the carburetor manufacturer and ask them what the fuel pressure should be.

Hope this helps!!!

I just went back and reread the posts: Moondance100 and WetWilly had great thoughts. Other than the problem I had with my fuel system, I have NO experience with boats. However, over the years I have had a fair amount of experience with carburetors used in autos and aircraft.

The choke must be wide open when the engine is at operating temperature.

Moondance100 had another excellent thought: the plugs used in the carburetor during the manufacturing process to seal the drilled passages could be leaking.

Since you do not have a vacuum pump the only way I see for fuel to enter the crankcase is though the carburetor. In any case, when you replace the carburetor with the corrcect one and verify your fuel pressure, your problem should be solved.

P&W what is the part # for the fuel pressure regulator you used? I am assuming you just tee'd into your line somewhere? My fuel line is steel so I am planning on using a rubber hose in order to tee in to check my pressure this weekend. I am not sure if it is the original pump or not....could have been replaced with the wrong one? I only bought the boat last fall and it has always flooded. I was hoping to check the pressure and if high, get it set and try to get away without replacing the carb? My experience with electric fuel pumps on cars and sleds that have EFI, tells me that there is usually a return line going back to the tank so that the pump can dump fuel back when idling etc so as to not overheat the pump. What will happen if I regulate the pressure back without a return? Is there a chance of overheating the pump? Is there a part # somewhere on the pump? I can't see it from the top. Perhaps if I remove the pump and locate the part #, I could verify it is the correct pump.

I did get ahold of the carb reman shop and they suggested a max of 5 psi. Not sure but I am assuming that is at idle? With an electric pump it should be the same all the time anyways?

Hi Kurtis, unfortunately, the boat is in FL; I'm in CT. However, I purchased the Holley regulator at NAPA. The item I purchased does not have a return line...which I thought was very unusual. I did not know if it was going to work, but I tried it and it worked very well.

The unit I have has NPT connections. I would recommend not using teflon tape; use a thread compound suitable for fuel. I did not use hose; I used a double flare on the 3/8" metal tubing with brass fittings (3/8" flare to NPT). Also, I would not use copper tubing because copper tends to work-harden under vibration.

I certainly do not want to give you bad information. If anybody out there has any comments, most importantly, if they do not agree with what I'm stating, PLEASE COMMENT!

Thanks,
Bob

Kurtis, if your pump is adjustable you probably will not need the regulator. Just adjust the pump's internal pressure relief valve to provide the proper pressure.

Hope this helps,
Bob