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-   -   Oil changes (http://www.mariahownersclub.com/forum/boating-101/248-oil-changes.html)

moondance100 08-25-2007 02:24 AM

Oil changes
 
How many hours do you guys change your oil at? Do you do it at the end of the year or at the beginning? I don't want to leave the end of year combustion by products in there all winter, but then if I change it, I'm thinking moisture, etc...

what a dilemma!

mikeyt 08-25-2007 02:36 AM

You have to change the oil too? :eek: Damm....what did i get myself into??



okay...i'll come clean... Usually change mine at the start of the season and at the end of the season just to be safe.

moondance100 08-25-2007 02:39 AM

Thats what I usually do. Start the season with fresh oil and change it around Labor day, then leave that in over winter, then change in spring...etc...

180diablo 08-25-2007 01:53 PM

yeah that sounds like the way to do it, get some fresh clean oil to sit in the crankcase over the winter so harmful deposits have been majority flushed out of the system and they arent getting into bearings and seals and such. Then start out clean again come the new boating season.

btw ... dont talk about end of season! :eek: LOL

I'm hoping to stay on the water till the end of September. Depending on rain and however long the heat will stick around for. Thanksgiving weekend would surely be the last weekend for boating up here (October 8th).

Z 202 08-25-2007 02:10 PM

I change my motor and outdrive oil when my boat gets winterized. I maybe put 60 hours on it during a season, so I don't see any reason to change it during the season at all.

moondance100 08-25-2007 02:13 PM

Seems like every way to do it has a downside. I don't like the thoguht of leaving last seasons oil sit in it all winter, bearing corrosion, etc...

I started out running 15w50 Mobil One in it and it's ready for it's first oil change. (new motor at start of this year). I think I'm going to go back to good ol Valvoline 20w50 and change it at the start of the season and again around Labor day...

Z 202 08-25-2007 02:24 PM

What's the downside to doing it at the end of the season?

I definately wouldn't leave used oil in the cc over the winter.

moondance100 08-25-2007 02:36 PM

The downside (real or imagined, I don't know) is the possibility of the oil sitting and drawing moisture over the winter. I'm thinking the oil you put in it in the fall won't be the same when you start it in the spring. But I'm obviously searching for answers!

After spending 8k on the new 502 this spring...I"m a little anal about this subject!:confused::o

Z 202 08-25-2007 03:21 PM

Well, I guess that's a possibility depending on where you store it. Mine goes to bed inside a nice dry building, so I'm not too worried.

I would bet that any small amounts of moisture are gonna evaporate out shortly after you run for the first time in the spring. I wouldn't be terribly concerned. I would definately take that over leaving the used oil sitting in it all winter...

180diablo 08-25-2007 03:49 PM

I don't even change my own oil. The fellow (aka my mechanic) at the marine where the previous owner has had the boat stored for the past few years, he changes and checks the boat over for me. So its in his capable hands since he knows exactly what has been done on the boat.

It's better to have a history with one person, then to start up a new history somewhere else.

dudders 08-27-2007 03:46 PM

Hey guys, I worked for Fuchs lubricants (Pronounced Foooks) not the other way!! as their Regional sales and production manager for several years so have a little bit of knowledge as far as oils are concerned. Heres my 2 cents worth on the subject.
As far as oils in crank cases are concerned, changing it at the start of the season is a very sensible idea. Firstly it is cheaper than wearing some piston rings or valve seats out (which can happen with old unused oil). The water that may accumulate will disperse - evaporate - but will deplete the additives, so this also makes for a good idea to change out the oil.
The use of Mobil one is a bit over the top. It is expensive and unless you are running any motor (including car engines) at WOT all the time you just dont need it. Valvoline 20w/50 is fine for warmer climates - but look at getting something a bit lighter in viscosity for cold climates, if you can get a good 10w/40 or there abouts it would be even better. The lower the first number in the viscosity range the better, as this is the cold viscosity of the oil. So on start up the oil is very viscous and will lubricate faster. The higher the second number the "thicker" the oil is when hot. This means the oil will hang in there longer when hot.
This is all laymens terms, but just stick with good quality well known brand oils and you will be alright. As far as the transmissions are concerned always stick with the manufacturers recommendations, the oils will be identical no matter what company you use.
Cheers, Tony

moondance100 08-27-2007 11:56 PM

That is great info Tony! I'll assume chemicals react the same down under! I think I'll forego the mobil one and go back to good ol dino oil and change it fall and spring!

dudders 08-28-2007 01:10 PM

Yeah Base oils are the same in Oz as in the Northern Hemisphere.:)
The additives are also basically the same, there really are only 5 to 8 major additive manufacturers around the world (which makes lubricant manufacturing easier). Because of this, most oils will be basically the same as each other. Each company has different compositions to each product (engine oils anyway). This is what makes each of them different.
If you find your engine (car or boat) is using a little bit of oil, you can safely change the viscosity to reduce or even stop this problem. If you are using a 15w/40 and you use a little bit of oil, change to a 15w/50 (increasing the top number - viscosity) will do this. Remember the first number indicates the "cold viscosity". You wont be using oil when the engine is cold.
If anyone is using 2 stroke outboards, ALWAYS go for a big brand 2 stroke oil.
Dont go cheap it is not worth it. I have seen tons of motors laid up simply because they chose the $5 bottle over the $10 one. There are heaps of companies producing these, and with this particular oil there are many variations.
Crank case oils are basically the same. There really is only one or two ways of making it. The base oils are the same and the additives also are very similar. Just go with the manufacturers recommendations, it will be fine. Dont ever put a heavier oil in than what they stipulate though.
If anyone has any queries just ask - boat or motor vehicle no problem.
CHeers Tony


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